
Class 
Book 



T'S 



1/?^" 






^— »..*•>-? 



:v^^ 



.^ 






etN^ 



eo 



15 1906 



-^^ 



K^^ 




'y %ri^' 7ic'<^^:^-^-^^t^ 






7 





Cotton Spinning 

THE QUESTIONS 

Set at the may Examination of the City and Guilds of 

London, 1889, 

WITH ANSWERS; 

ALSO, 

AN APPENDIX OF USEFUL RULES AND EXAMPLES 
CONNECTED WITH THE TRADE. 



SECOND EDITION, 

REVISED AND ENLARGED; 



BY .. 



WM. WHITTAM, Jr., 

ist Honors Certificate, Cotton Manufacture, 
ist Honors, Cotton Spinning. 



ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 



PROVIDENCE, R. 1.: 

C. A. M. praray & Co., . Bannigan Building. 

CHARLOTTE, N. C. : 

C. A. M. Praray & Co., Tryon Street. 



The J. C. Hall Company, 

Printers, 

Providence, R. \. 



.W5 






14 



^^x 



71 



PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION. 



This book is primarily intended for the use of students of Cotton 
Spinning, to aid them in their preparation for the examinations in 
this subject, held by the City and Guilds of London. 

Technically education has made rapid strides in this country 
during the last decade, and this has given rise to many excellent 
works on the various technological subjects, and also to the forma- 
tion of classes for the study of these subjects. 

Though it may be, as has been asserted — and not without 
reason — that the subject of cotton spinning has been dealt with in 
a manner too abstract and speculative, and that too great value is 
often attached to theoretical knowledge ; still, it cannot be doubted 
that a knowledge of the elements of the theory is of considerable 
value to those who are mainly concerned, with practical results. 
Technical classes and text books a^ undoubtedly valuable aids to 
the acquisition of a sound knowledge of the science, but it is to the 
factory that the student must apply himself for the most useful 
part of his training, and text books should be used as guides to the 
intelligent study of the different departments. In asserting this we 
seek to do no more than support the old truism, ''experientia docef 

The answers to the examination questions are as complete as 
the limits of the works will allow, and in many of them there will 
be found much that the questions do not ask for, the object being 
to make the work more useful than it would have been, had the 
bare and brief answers required been given, in fact they are 
intended to be not only of use to the student, but it is hoped that 
they will be found of value to the practical man. 

In the appendix there is a treatise on ' ' Cone Drums, ' ' by the 



present writer, reprinted from the "Textile Educator," also 
various rules, with examples, which will be found useful to those 
who occupy, or are aspiring to, the more responsible positions in a 
cotton spinning mill. 

W. W., Jr. 
PrKSTOn, October, 1889. 



PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION. 



In submitting a second edition of this work, which with the ex- 
ception of the last few pages was originally published in England, 
the author trusts that it may find a place among the textile works 
of the country ; and if it should assist in even a small degree 
toward a more thorough knowledge of the science of cotton spin- 
ning, its object will have been attained. 

A glossary is introduced to explain several terms used in the 
work which are more or less local to the Eancashire cotton trade. 

W. Whittam, Jr. 
Chari^otte;, N. C, April 9, 1898. 




A. — Unripe Fibre, 

B, — Half ripe imperfectly developed Fibre, 

C — Fully matured and ripe Fibre, 



(Longitudinal view). 




Fig. 2. 



D. — Unripe Fibre, 

E. — Half ripe imperfectly developed Fibre, 

F. — Fully matured and ripe Fibre, 



(Transverse sections). 



COTTON SPINNING; 

The Qjiesiion set at the May Examitiation of the City and Guilds 
of Lo7idon, i88g, 2vith Ansivers. 



ORDINARY GKADE. 

Question i. — Describe a cotton fibre in words or by 
sketch, and say how its natural configuration becomes use- 
ful in making yarn. 

Answer. — From the illustration figs, (i and 2). which 
represents a magnified typical cotton fibre, both longitudi- 
nally and in transverse section, it will be seen that a 
cotton fibre somewhat resembles a flat twisted ribbon with 
corded edges, when viewed longitudinally. In section it 
appears as an irregular hollow cylinder with thick lamina- 
ted walls. It is, in fact, an elongated cellular filament, 
having thick, well-defined walls, and a central cavity ex- 
tending almost to its apex; the walls being thickened, and 
the cavity partially filled with substances termed secondary 
deposits. It is greatest in diameter at the base, or that end 
by which it has been attached to the seed ; from this point 
its diameter is approximately uniform for about three- 
fourths of its length, when the central cavity disappears,* 
and it gradually tapers to a point. 

The mean length of the fibre varies in different species 
from 1.80 inches in the finest Sea Islands to .85 inches in 
East Indian cottons. The number of convolutions or twists 
per inch vary from 500 to 800. Its diameter is subject to 
similar variations, being about tsW inch in the former and 
ttU of an inch in the latter variety. It consists entirely of 



a substance known to scientists as "cellulose," the chemical 
formula for which is C^ H'° 0\ i. e., 6 atoms of carbon 
chemically combined with five molecules of water. The 
natural configuration of the fibre becomes useful in making 
yarn owing to the fact that in the spinning process, by 
the action of the spindle, the convolutions of the fibre are 
interlocked; the ridge or corded edge of one fibre being 
laid in the depression of another, thus enabling the thread 
to withstand a much greater tensil strain than could other- 
wise be the case. 

Q. 2. — Describe the difference between a perfectly 
developed and ripe cotton fibre, an unripe one, and an im- 
perfectly developed one. 

A. — The answer to the previous question describes a 
fully-developed and ripe cotton fibre. An unripe fibre 
differs from one that is fully ripe in having few, if any, 
convolutions, and the corded edges of the ripe fibre are 
also absent, and it appears as a thin, attenuated, semi- 
transparent, ribbon-like filament of homogenous structure. 
It is also much weaker and more brittle than the ripe fibre, 
and is incapable of taking dyes, except mechanically, ?'. e., 
on the surface. Many defects in colored fabrics are fre- 
quently attributable to the presence of an abnormal 
proportion of these unripe and imperfectly developed fibres. 
Figs. I and 2 give a magnified view of this class of fibre, 
both longitudinally and in section. The imperfectly devel- 
oped fibre, while showing some evidence of internal 
structure, does not possess so many " twists," and these 
are more irregular than those seen in the fully-developed 
variety; the fibre is not so round or strong, and the 
thickness of the corded edges is less, and while the cylin- 
drical structure is apparent, it is not so marked as it is in 
the case of the typical fibre. Figs, i and 2 also give repre- 
sentations of this kind of fibre. 



Q. 3. — Give a brief description of the following cottons, 
and say what yarns they are most suitable for: Sea Isl- 
and, Middling American, Brown Egyptian, and Hingunghat. 

A. — Sea Islands cotton is the finest cotton grown, 
having the longest staple of any variety. The fibres are 
very regular and of small diameter. It is a very silky staple 
of a creamy tinge, and has a large number of twists or 
convolutions per inch. It is suitable for the finest yarns 
spun, from i6o's upwards. Its price is generally from I2d. 
to 2 2d. per pound, (equal to 24 to 44 cents American,) 
according to its cpiality, and the scarceness or otherwise 
of the crop. 

Middling American is a most useful cotton of a white 
color ; generally it is the most in demand of the American 
cottons, and is fairly clean. It possesses one peculiar 
characteristic, which is its adaptability to mix with cottons 
having a longer or shorter staple than its own; suitable 
for counts ranging from 40's to 6o's twist or weft. Price 
from 5td. to 6Kl. per pound. (11] to 13^- cents American.) 

Brown Egyptain is a long stapled cotton of good quality, 
having a comparatively large percentage of short fibres. 
As its name implies, it is of a brown color, which is caused 
by the presence of a natural substance known as " endo- 
chrome, " which turns brown on exposure to the action of 
the sun after the bursting of the pods. It is of a soft silky 
nature, and ranks next to Sea Islands in quality. Counts, 
from So's to 140's, Price from 6id. to 8d. per pound. (13 
to 16 cents American.) 

Hingunghat. — An East Indian cotton of a white color. 
For a cotton of this class it is fairly regular and rather soft, 
therefore most suitable for weft ; will spin up to 36's weft. 
Price from 4.^d. to 5fd. per pound. (9 to 11^ cts. American.) 

Note. — Cotton values have depreciated very materially 
since the preceeding answer was written. 



Q. 4. — The bale-opener is a new machine recently intro- 
duced Describe it and say in what respect its use is 
advantageous. 

A. — The bale opener is a machine used to prepare cotton 
for mixing, and for the opener or Hopper feeder. Under 
the old system of cotton mixino- the cotton is taken from 
the bale, pulled by hand, and thrown on to the mixing. 
This operation is often negligently performed by the 
" mixers," and the result is that the cotton is quite often 
thrown upon the mixing in hard lumps, and when these are 
passed through the opener they cause bars to be broken, 
and the cotton is not opened nor the dirt extracted to the 
same extent as would be the case if the cotton were 
pulled or broken in a proper manner. These causes 
have led to the construction of the machine known as the 
"bale opener" or " bale breaker," which is designed and 
adapted to perform this important work efificiently. The 
following is a description of the machine, as generally con- 
structed. The machine has a feeding lattice, 6 feet long, 
from centre to centre of the lattice blocks ; this lattice 
delivers the cotton to the first pair of rollers, which are 
named the collecting rollers, revolving at about 4.9 revolu- 
tions per minute. From these rollers the cotton is passed 
through three pairs of breaker rollers successively, a well 
proportioned draft being provided between each pair, thus 
obtaining all the features of hand pulling, and also ensur- 
ing the cotton from each bale being equally and well pulled. 
The approximate respective velocities of the rollers are : — 

1st pair or Collecting Rollers 4.9 rev. per min. 

2nd " 1st Breaker " 10.4 

3rd " 2nd " " 47 " 

4th " 3rd "(delivery)" 229 " " 

The cotton is taken from the bales in la3/ers and laid upon 
the creeper feed lattice of the " breaker," and by the action 
of the collecting and breaker rollers it is delivered in good 



10 



condition for spreading on the opener lattice. In addition 
to the cotton being pulled, all hard substances are removed, 
passing down between the rollers to the floor. This ma- 
chine is admirably adapted for long stapled cottons. 

Another machine of this type is made which is more 
specially designed and adapted for manipulating pressed 
East Indian Low-grade American and similar cottons. It 
has only two pairs of breaker rollers, eight inches in diame- 
ter, the second pair of which deliver tlie cotton to a cylinder 
1 8 inches in diameter. This machine also runs at a some- 
what greater speed than the former. 

Q. 5. — Which is better, small mixings of cotton or large ? 
Give the reasons for your opinion, and briefly describe how 
you would proceed to mix, say 20 bales of Low Middling 
Orleans and 10 bales of Dhollerah. 

A. — Large mixings of cotton will produce better results 
than small ones. 

The advantages to be derived from a large mixing as 
compared with a small one are numerous, and of an impor- 
tant character to the cotton spinner. The mixing should 
be as laro^e as circumstances — such as size of mixino- room, 
capital at disposal, or state of cotton markets — render ad- 
visable. A mixing of such magnitude as to last a month 
is to be desired in preference to one that will only last a 
week or a few days, since every new mixing will cause some 
appreciable difference in either color, strength, or cleanli- 
ness of the yarn, or perhaps in all of these points. Another 
point not to be overlooked is that the cotton having been 
subjected to enormous pressure in baleing, it is clotted into 
hard lumps, and being somewhat loosened in the process 
of mixing, and left for some time, — in the case of a large 
mixing — it expands further, and thus renders the work of 
the opener less difficult than it would other'Cvise be. 

If any superfluous moisture be present it will evaporate, 



II 



and thus leave the cotton in a more suitable condition for 
manipulation in subsequent operations. 

In mixing the 20 bales Low Middling Orleans and 10 
bales Dhollerah given in the question, the mode of proced- 
ure calculated to produce the best results would be to make 
two mixings, one of Orleans and one of Dhollerah ; open 
say the first 20 bales Orleans, and from the first bale form a 
layer by shaking its contents loose upon the floor — if hand 
mixed — so as to cover the area allotted to this mixings. 
Other layers should then be formed, one from each bale, 
and superimposed in regular order. After having mixed 
the 10 bales Dhollerah in a similar manner, each mixing 
should be passed through the opener separately by taking 
vertical sections of same. In this manner the different 
grades of cotton frequently found in individual bales, or 
in different bales of the same lot, will be thoroughly 
blended. 

The laps formed from each of these mixings should then 
be "doubled" in the creel of the intermediate scutcher in 
the ratio two of Orleans to one of Dhollerah. 

Q. 6. — From what cottons would you spin a medium 
quality of the following yarns: — 16/24's, 32/36's, 40's, Go's, 
8o's, all twist or warp yarns? 

A. — The cottons from which the above counts would be 
spun are dependent upon the purposes for which the yarn 
is required; if it is to be introduced into goods required 
to take a large percentage of size, a harsh, intractable 
cotton, producing a soft, oozy, loosely constructed yarn, 
would be selected; but if the yarn is required for goods 
which are only to be sized sufificiently to enable them to 
stand the strain and abrasion of weaving operations, i. e., 
light goods, then a fine, silky cotton, producing a strong, 
compact and firm yarn, would recommend itself. 

The following are some of the cottons adapted for a 



12 



medium quality of the twist yarns enumerated in the 
question, due reg'ard .being paid to the above mentioned 
conditions: — 

16/24's may be spun h'om Dharwar, Dhollerah, or 
Oomerawuttee, either mixed together or alone. 

32/36's. — The better grades of the above cottons may 
be mixed with the strong, low classes of Americans, as 
Texas or Georgia. 

40's, — The middling varieties of Orleans, Texas, &c., 
alone, or mixed with some such South American cotton as 
soft Peruvian, would form a good mixing for these counts. 

6o's — The higher grades of American, with some of the 
S. A. cottons, as Maranham, Ceara, Santos, Pernams, &c., 
would be suitable. 

8o's. — A mixing composed of good, fair brown Egyptian 
and Peeler (American), would produce good results for 
these counts. 

Q. 7. — What number of turns per inch, medium twist 
would be proper for i6's, 24's, 32's, 40's, 60s " twist," and 
24's, 36's, 40's 50's, 6o's wefts? Give the rule by which 
you find these results. 

A. — The proper turns per inch for a medium quality of 
the following counts are: — 



Twi 


ST Yarns. 


Weft Yarns. 


Counts. 




Turns. 


Counts. 


Turns. 


i6's 


= 


15.00 


24's = 


15-92 


24's 


= 


^^-37 


36's = 


19.50 


32's 


=^ 


2 1,2 1 


40's = 


20.55 


40's 


= 


23.71 


50's = 


22.96 


6o's 


= 


29.04 


60' s = 


25-17 



T/ie turns per hich given in this answer are for mule 
spun yarns. 

The rule by which these results are obtained is as follows: 



13 



Multiply the square root of the counts by j.2§ for medium 
weft, and by ^ .y ^ for medium tzvist yarns, ajid the quotient 
will be the turns per iiich required. 

Example: — Say we require the turns for 36's weft. 

Then v/36 =^ 6. 
.•. By rule 6 x 3.25 = 19.50 turns per inch required. 
Ag'ain, say we require the turns for i6's twist. 
Then, as before, 

V/i6 = 4. 
.•. 4 X 3.75 = 15.00 = turns required. 
For extra twist yarns the general rule is to multiply the 
square root of the counts by 4 for twist, and by 3.50 for 
weft yarns. 

Q. 8. — What are "neps" in cotton, and how and in 
what machines are they most liable to be made? 

A. — Neps are small white specks, sometimes found in 
cotton, and we may define a nep as a small tangled mass 
of cotton fibres, so interwined and entangled that it is im- 
possible to disentangle them in the process of cotton 
spinning, and it is also very dil^cult to extricate them from 
the properly opened fibres. There are three machines 
used in the preparation of cotton, which are mainly respon- 
sible for the production of this objectionable feature, 
namely, the Saw Gin — a machine whose function it is to 
separate the cotton from the seed on which it grows, and 
to which it adheres very tenaciously, — The Opening and 
scutching machinery, and the Carding Engine. The Saw 
Gin is a machine largely used in America, and neps are 
found in a larger proportion in this class of cotton than in 
any other. If the saws in this machine are improperly set, 
if the machine is fed too thickly, or the cleaning brush does 
not clear off all the cotton from the saws at each revolution, 
"Neps" will be the result. If in the construction or man- 
agement the openers or scutchers are not made to pass on 



14 



every particle of cotton struck off from the feed rollers at 
each revolution of the beater, but allows some of the 
cotton to be carried round the beater and past the feed 
rollers and grate bars a second time, this objectionable 
feature would be found in the resultant laps. 

There are many things in the Carding Engine which 
will cause Neps to be produced, the four principals, of 

which are: — 

I St. — Overloading the Wire. 

2nd. — Want of Stripping. 

3rd. — Want of Grinding. 

4th. — W^ant of Setting. 

I St.— If the card is overloaded. /. e., if we have very 

heavy carding, we should probably find the web to be 

neppy. 

2nd.— If the stripping through any cause has been neg- 
lected, we should have the same result. 

od.—If the wire be dull through some part of the carding 
surfaces being in contact, we should find the same defect, 
which would be remedied by grinding the wire sharp. 

4th.— If the card has been working for some time and 
the setting been neglected, we should find "neppy" carding 
as the result. 

Q. 9._In what respect has the revolving flat card proved 
itself superior to the roller card; and what is the difference 
in appearance between yarn produced from the roller card 
and the revolving flat card ? 

A.— The superiority of the revolving flat over the roller 
and clearer card is manifest in the more approximate 
parallel arrangement of the fibres as seen in the web as it 
leaves this machine than in that from the roller card; it is 
also much more gentle in its treatment of the cotton, and 
does not injure the fibre, nor break up the seeds, motes, 
etc., so much as the roller card does, but allows them to 

15 



get embedded in the wires and spaces between the flats 
until they come up to be stripped off by the comb; whereas 
in the roller card some of the bearded seeds and motes 
that have passed the dirt rollers are delivered by the' cylin- 
der to the first roller, and then taken from that and deliv- 
ered to the cylinder again, when they are again carried 
forward to the first roller, or, if they escape being caught 
again by the first roller, they are passed on to the second, 
and are again taken from the roller by the clearer and 
given to the cylinder, and so on, this process being repeated 
by each roller in succession, from the first to the last, 
which causes them to break up, pass on, and ultimately to 
be incorporated with the yarn. 

The former machine also extracts more immature, weak, 
and unripe fibre, which, if it entered into the structure of 
the yarn, would greatly diminish its strength and deterior- 
ate its quality. It also produces a more level, clear, and 
strong sliver than the latter. Another point to which the 
revolving flat owes its superiority over the roller card lies 
in tlie fact that in the former machine the flats are contin- 
uously bringing clean wire to work at the position where 
it is most required, and where the work to be performed is 
the heaviest, z. e., at the back of the cylinder. From these 
facts we should expect to find the difference in appearance 
between yarn produced from the roller card and that pro- 
duced from the revolving flat to be more level, clean, 
strong, and more compactly formed silky-looking thread 
from the flat card than from the roller card; the yarn from 
the latter card would appear oozy and soft, anci would con- 
tain a comparatively greater quantity of foreign matter, 
bearded motes, etc., which spoil its appearance and depre- 
ciate its value. 

Q, lo. — How is cotton injured if passed through too 
many heads of drawing, and what is the effect upon the 
yar 



■n? 



i6 



A. — Cotton, when passed throiio'h too many heads of 
drawing, or, as it is technically termed, "overdrawn," has 
its natural configuration destroyed and the fibres are 
strained, whereby the yarn is weakened, owing to the re- 
duction in the number of the convolution of the fibres 
allowing them to slide over each other, when subjected to 
strain, much more readily than would be the case if the 
fibres composing the thread were in their normal condition. 
It is also rendered inelastic, unlevel, or cloudy in appear- 
ance, and its quality is generally deteriorated. When it 
has been passed through too many heads of drawing there 
is also, as a result of this evil, a considerable financial loss, 
owing to the power, supervision, labor expended, waste 
made, etc., being in excess of that which is absolutely nec- 
essary to produce a good yarn. 

Q. II. — How is the slubbing, roving, and yarn injured 
when the top rollers are badly covered, or the coverings 
channelled by wear; and when the flutings of the bottom 
rollers are worn? 

A. — The effects produced by defective top or bottom 
rollers such as referred to in the question are the same 
upon the slubbing and roving as well as the yarn, therefore 
if we consider the effects produced upon the latter, we shall 
inclucie the two former. There are several points in the 
preparation and covering of top leather rollers which re- 
quire careful attention, and which, if neglected, will have 
an injurious effect upon the yarn. If the piecings either 
of the leathers or cloths are badly made, they will cut the 
thread at every revolution of the roller, causing a weak, 
irregular yarn, and making much waste. The ends of the 
rollers should be finished off smooth, as, if left rough, 
breakages, and consequently uneven yarn, is the result. 
If the leathers or the cloths on both bosses of the rollers 
(if fast-bossed rollers) are not of the same thickness, they 

17 



will cause one boss of the roller to have a greater diameter 
than the other, and since their motion is acquired entirely 
by contact with the bottom roller, there will be an amount 
of abrasion in one of the bosses which will give the yarn a 
raw, cloudy appearance as it leaves the front roller, and 
cause cut, soft, and consequently weak yarn to be produced. 
If the top rollers were in good condition when covered, but 
have become channelled by wear, they are unable to grip 
the fibres of the thread properly, when by the movement of 
the traverse they come into the depression, and are thus 
prevented from drawing them in a regular and even 
manner, and as a result they produce, as in the previous 
case, a soft uneven, and weak thread. Now, as mentioned 
previously, the motion of the top rollers is derived solely 
from the contact with the botto.m ones, and if the flutings 
of the latter are worn, they have not the same hold on the 
leathers as when the flutings are good; therefore there is a 
greater liability in these rollers to slip, which liability is still 
further increased if they require oiling or are dirty, and the 
same results will be produced as in the previous cases. 
Hence we find that whether all or any one of these defects 
be present, the result is a soft, irregular, and weak or cut 
yarn. 

Note. — The eco7ioiny and importance of using the best 
qualities of roll skins and cloth cannot be too strongly 
etnphasized. 

Q. 12. — What advantage, if any, is obtained by spinning 
yarns from a double roving ? Are there any disadvantages 
attending the process ? If so, state them. 

A. — The principal advantage obtained by spinning yarn 
from a double roving is, that it conduces to the equalization 
of the thread by introducing twice the number of doublings 
that would be obtained from a single roving, and we thus 
obtain a more level and uniform thread from this mode of 



procedure ; but when we consider that all drawing- after the 
parallelism of the fibres is completed — which we may reas- 
onably suppose it to be when it gets to the roving— is 
injurious, and weakens the thread; so in spinning yarn 
from double roving there is the disadvantage of having 
twice the amount of draft required for single roving, and 
this must have some tendency to weaken the yarn. Again, 
in using a double roving, if from any .cause one of the ends 
of roving should break, or if the bobbin runs off unnoticed 
by the attendant, then a quantity of " single" will pass on 
into the yarn, which is a very objectionable feature in sub- 
sequent processes. This cannot take place in yarns spun 
from single roving. The cost of production is also appre- 
ciably increased by the use of double roving. 

Q. 13. — Describe the main points of difference between 
the doubling ring frame and the ''twining jenny," and say 
which produces the best and greatest quantity of work. 

A. The machines named in this question are modifica- 
tions of the ring spinning frame and the mule respectively, 
and the principal point of difference between them is that 
while the former machine is continuous the latter is inter- 
mittent in its action. In the first-named machine the creel 
is stationary, and the yarn is passed from the delivery 
rollers to a traveller revolving round a ring fixed in a lift- 
ing rail. This traveller gives the requisite drag to the yarn, 
and the cop or bobbin is formed by the upward and down- 
ward traverse of the lifter rail. In the "twining jenny" the 
spindles are fixed in a stationary " bank," while the creel is 
movable, and during the operation of twisting the yarns the 
creel retires from the spindles, and when it has arrived at 
the end of its outward traverse or stretch the operation of 
" backing off " is performed, and then it returns to its former 
position at the spindle bank. During its return or inward 
traverse the yarn is wound on the spindles or tubes by 

19 



means of a copping arrangement somewhat similar in prin- 
ciple to that found in the mule, the faller guiding" the yarn 
so as to form a cop, and the " counter faller " supplying the 
necessary drag. This class of machine is used for either 
dry or wet doubling. Occasionally the converse arrange- 
ment of spindles and creels to the foregoing is found, the 
creel being fixed and the spindles movable as in the mule 
spinning frame ; but this is seldom the case except the 
"jenny" has been previously used for spinning purposes. 
The ring doubling frame is the most productive, and also 
produces the best work, except for very fine counts, when 
the " twining jenny " is preferred owing to its being more 
gentle in its treatment of the yarn. Wet doubling is gen- 
erally performed on the former machine. 

Q. 14. — On what terms is cotton usually bought in Liv- 
erpool, and yarn sold in Manchester? 

A. — The terms on which cotton is usually bought in 
Liverpool are : Ten days credit, less i^ per cent, discount. 
If the payment is delayed beyond the ten days allowed five 
per cent, interest is charged on the amount of the account, 
and conversely, if the account is paid before the expiration 
of ten days 5 per cent, interest is allowed. 

It is also specified that falsely packed, damaged, or un- 
merchantable cotton will be allowed for at the value of the 
sound cotton at the date of return, if such return be made 
and the claim sent in within ten days and three months 
from the date of invoice. 

The terms on which yarn is sold in Manchester are: 14 
day's credit, less 2^ per cent, discount. These terms apply 
to the home trade. For the terms of foreign trade see 
answer to question 1 7 honors. Carriage or freight on yarns 
is generally paid by the buyer, except it is sent to Manches- 
ter, in which case it is delivered carriage or freight prepaid. 



20 



HONORS GRADE. 

Question i. — Name the chief cotton markets of the 
world in which the raw material is sold to the trade ; and 
say what sections of the trade are supplied by each. 

Answer. — These are : — Liverpool, which supplies all sec- 
tions of the home trade. A considerable number of bales 
are also sold in this market for exportation. 

Bremen : — One of the three free towns in Germany, in 
the kingdom of Prussia, supplies the trade of that country, 
which consists chiefly of medium (American) counts. 
About one-fifth of the total consumption of cotton is spun 
into low numbers from East India cotton. 

Havre : — On the Seine in France, is the source from 
which the spinners of that country are supplied. The ma- 
jor portion of the trade is engaged in spinning low numbers 
(Surats), but a considerable quantity of medium counts are 
also spun. 

Amsterdam : — Supplies Holland, whose trade is some- 
what similar to that of France. 

These constitute the principal European markets. The 
American section of the trade is supplied in New York and 
some of the various markets in or about the cotton growing 
states, as New Orleans, Charleston, etc. 

The East Indian trade obtains its raw material chiefly in 
Bombay. The mills remote from this market are supplied 
from the markets in their more immediate vicinity. 

Q. 2. — How and through what agency is cotton bought 
in Liverpool ? Describe the function of the buying and the 
selling broker, and their respective duties. 

A. — Cotton is bought in Liverpool by spinners or their 
representatives, who invariably employ " brokers" to act as 
their agents. These brokers generally act exclusively either 



21 



as "buying brokers" or as " sellino- brokers," and their 
function is to serve as a connection between the importer 
and the spinner or purchaser. A buying broker is one who 
buys the cotton for the spinner. 

A selHng broker is one who sells the cotton to the buying 
broker acting on behalf of the spinner. 

The duties of the buying broker are, to attend to the 
interests of the firm for whom he is acting ; to keep them 
informed as to the state of the market, its fluctuations and 
current prices ; to submit to the purchaser samples of the 
various cottons in the market, and the prices of the same ; 
and to attend to the due delivery, marking, and weighing 
of the bales, and to see that they are up to sample. He 
also receives payment for the cotton from the purchaser, 
and transmits it to the selling broker, who in turn pays it 
to the importer. All claims for falsely packed or unmer- 
chantable cotton must be forwarded to the buying broker. 

The duties of the selling broker are to act in a similar 
manner for the individual or firm who place their cotton 
with him to sell, and to dispose of the same on the most 
advantageous terms. 

Cotton brokers are remunerated at the rate of one-half 
per cent. " brokerage " or commission on the amount of 
each transaction ; in the case of the buying broker the 
brokerage is paid by the purchaser, and the selling broker 
is paid by the importer of the cotton. 

Q. 3. — Some persons combine in themselves the duties 
of both buying and selling brokers ; is it prudent from a 
spinner's point of view to deal with such ? 

A. — It is certainly not prudent for a spinner to deal with 
such persons as those mentioned in the question, for it will 
be to the advantage of these " double brokers " to sell the 
cottons of those persons for whom they are acting as sell- 
ing brokers to the spinners for whom they are buying, and 



22 



to get the best price for them, and they will thus obtain 
brokerage from both parties for one transaction. Persons 
who combine in themselves the duties of both buying and 
selling brokers are the exception and not the rule, and the 
bulk of the selling is done by one class of brokers, and the 
bulk of the buying by another class. This is an arrange- 
ment which is calculated to be to the advantage of all the 
parties concerned, since it secures to the seller an agent 
who will act just as if he were selling his own cotton, and 
the buyer is insured a servant whose interests will be 
identical with his own as much as if the broker himself were 
the owner of a mill, and was purchasing the cotton for 
himself. 

Q. 4. — What are the various terms on which cotton is 
bought and sold in Liverpool ; and what do the letters c. i. 
f . indicate ? 

A. — The first part of the answer to question 14, Ord., 
and question 5, Hon., are a sufhcient answer to that part of 
this question which requires the terms on which cotton is 
bought and sold In Liverpool. 

The letters c. I. f. indicate " costs," " insurance," and 
" freight." 

O. 5. — What are "spot," "arrivals," and "future" cot- 
tons ; and what are the conditions governing a transaction 
In them ? 

A. — " Spot," " arrivals," and "futures," are three terms 
which may be said to designate the position of cottons ten- 
dered for sale In the Liverpool market. 

The meaning of the term " spot," or spot cottons, is 
obvious. It Is applied to cotton actually at Liverpool, I. e., 
the seller may be said to be tendering goods actually In 
his possession. 



The conditions governing transactions in them are ten 
days' credit, less i^ per cent, discount. If paid before or 
after the ten days 5 per cent, interest is allowed or charged. 

The term "arrivals" is applied to cotton in transit, either 
at sea or shipped on vessels before departure. The pur- 
chase of this class of cotton is similar to obtaining goods 
on order. The conditions for " arrivals" are identical with 
those of spot cottons, except that the seller can demand 
payment before delivery if he thinks proper to do so. 
Also the cotton must be taken direct from the ship's side 
to the mill, or if warehoused it is at the expense of the 
buyer. 

" Futures" are cottons bought for delivery in certain for- 
ward months. They are bought on a basis, of say 6d. (12 
cents American) per pound for Middling American. For 
example, say a spinner buys in March a certain quantity of 
cotton, on the above basis, to be delivered in September, 
he will then have to pay or receive, on the weekly settle- 
ment day, the difference in the market value of the month 
purchased. This is done weekly until the day of delivery, 
which may be at any time during the month in which it is 
contracted 10 be delivered ; it is then at the buyer's option 
whether he will have the actual Middling American or 
receive or pay the difference in value. If the seller can- 
not deliver the cotton if demanded, he must pay the 
difference in value, and in addition a fine fixed by the 
Liverpool Cotton Association. The other conditions are 
similar to those of " spot" cotton. 

If a spinner buys what are called " distant futures," he 
may be contracting for cotton which is not yet even planted 
or sown ; which, in fact, only exists upon paper. A person 
who buys "futures" is sometimes termed a "bull," while 
the seller of the futures is termed a " bear." 

O. 6. — Describe a cotton fibre by sketch or words ; give 
your opinion as to how its convolutions are formed, what 

24 



functions the fibres serve in the natural propagation of the 
plant, and how the convolute structure of the fibre becomes 
useful in making yarn ? 

A. — For a description of the cotton fibre, and also for an 
explanation of the manner in which its convolute structure 
becomes useful in making yarn, reference must be made to 
the answer to question i Ord. Grade ; and the only two 
points in this question which require further notice are, 
first, that which refers to the manner in which the convolu- 
tions of the fibres are formed, and second, the functions of 
the fibre in the natural propagation of the plant. 

Then, firstly, as to the formation of its convolutions : 

When the seed has reached maturity the secretion of the 
vital fluid is arrested, and the supply to the fibre is there- 
fore stopped; and that fluid or "sap" which is contained 
in the tube of the fibre is absorbed by the seed, and a 
vacuum is thus formed commencing at the outer free ex- 
tremity of the fibre. Following the retreat of the fluid is 
the collapse of the tube owing to the pressure of the 
atmosphere ; and, as a consequence of this, the fibre is 
twisted on its own axis at its apex. This process proceed- 
ing simultaneously in the majority of the fibres contained 
in the pod produces such a distortion of their primary 
arrangement as to burst the capsule, and the process of 
twisting is then rapidly completed under the favorable in- 
fluence of the direct action of the sun's rays. 

Secondly, with regard to the functions of the fibre in the 
natural propagation of the plant. They are as follows : 

I St. They serve as a protection to the seeds. 2nd. When 
the seed is tn a proper condition for germination it is liber- 
ated from the parent plant, and the fibres attached to it 
serve as a parachute, presenting a light surface to the 
action of the winds, by which means it is distributed to 
situations favorable to its growth and more perfect devel- 
opment. 

25 



Q. 7. — What is the difference in origin, character, and 
value between " good fair brown " and " good fair white " 
Egyptian cottons ; and for what yarns are they respectively 
best adapted ? 

A. — " Good fair" brown Egyptian cotton is an indigen- 
ous variety belonging to the species Gossypium HerbaceiLin ; 
it may be described as a long-stapled cotton of good qual- 
ity. As its name implies, it is of a brown shade, which is 
due to the presence of " endochrome," as explained in an- 
swer to question 3 Ord. G. It is of a fine silky nature, 
and is the most regular cotton grown in the diameter of its 
fibres. Another noticeable feature of this cotton is that in 
it there is found a more considerable quantity of short, im- 
perfectly developed fibres than in any other variety. 

White Egyptian is grown from the exotic varieties G. 
Hirsutum and G. Peruvia^mm. It is a fairly regular cot- 
ton, rather harsh, white in color, and most suitable for weft. 

The price of this grade of brown Egyptian may be taken 
at about 7gd. per pound, and the same grade of white 
Egyptian is valued at about 6id. per pound, so that the 
difference in their values is about 8.77 per cent. 

Number or Counts: — Brown, 8o's. to 140's. 
" " " : — White up to 80's. 

Q. 8. — Is it always good to mix cottons in one " stack" 
or mixing ; or is it sometimes better to blend each variety 
separately, and afterwards mix in the lap machine? If 
sometimes one, and sometimes the other, state the con- 
ditions which make either the one or the other preferable. 

A. — It is not advisable in all cases to mix cottons in one 
" stack " or mixing, but it is sometimes better to blend each 
variety separately, and afterwards mix in the scutcher. In 
order to determine when either of these methods will be 
best, it will be of advantage to inquire into the objects 

26 



souo-ht to be attained in the mixing process, and also why 
this^process is necessary. Cotton which has been grown 
upon the same plant is always found to be m different 
stages of maturity, and it is a matter of impossibility to so 
assort the fibres that all those of one degree of maturity 
and structure may be relegated to one lot, and this being 
the case in the individual plant it is much more so in cotton 
which has been grown upon different plants, and owing to 
the fact that cotton grown upon different plantations is 
often packed in the same bale without suf^cient regard to 
classification, this difference in quality is increased to such 
an extent that it is highly desirable to mix all cottons even 
of the same class in a ''stack," in order to secure their 
proper assimilation. Again, in some instances it is neces- 
sary to blend cottons having very different characteristics 
to produce a special class of yarn; or it may be that the 
current prices of the different classes of cotton, suitable for 
making any counts of yarn, make it desirable to lay down a 
mixing of two or three varieties having somewhat different 
features, and since the primary object of mixing is to so 
blend the cottons as to ensure the production of a good 
yarn uniform in color and structure, the method of mixmg 
in one "stack" would be resorted to when all the mixing 
is of one class of cotton ; or if two varieties are to be 
incorporated, and they are in such a proportion as to make 
it impossible to mix them in the lap machine, they would 
be blended in one mixing. 

Mixing in the scutcher or picker : — 

If two or three classes of cotton are to be used, possess- 
ing different properties of color or length of staple, and 
they are in some such ratio as 2:2, 3:1, 2:1, or 2:1:1. 
the method of mixing in the lap machine would recommend 
itself each varietv having been previously blended sepa- 
rately Another case in which mixing in the lap machine 
would be adopted is when we have two lots of cotton, one 
dirty and the other clean. If these lots are blended m one 

27 



mixing the impurities of the dirtier cotton will be scattered 
through the whole bulk of both lots, whereas if each lot is 
passed through the opener separately, a large portion of 
the impurities are extracted previous to mixing, and the 
result is that more of the impurities are removed in the 
aggregate than there would be if they were mixed in a 
single "stack" or mixing. 

O. 9. — What would be the consequence of mixing cot- 
tons of irregular length of staple in each of the successive 
stages of opening, lap forming, carding, drawing, slubbing, 
roving, and spinning ; and what would be the character of 
the yarn produced? 

A. — This question can be dealt with more readily without 
too frequent repetition if taken in the four sections into 
which it appears naturally divisable, viz. : — 
(i) Opening and Lap Forming. 

(2) Carding. 

(3) Drawing. 

(4) Slubbing, Roving, and Spinning. 

Opening and Lap Forming. — The results which would 
arise from the use of the mixing assumed in the question, 
in the machines of the opening and scutching department 
are, the fibres would either be broken or else passed on 
insufTficiently opened, owing to the impossibility of setting 
the feed rollers at the proper distance from the beater for 
both long and short staples, at the same time. The long- 
fibres would be broken if the rollers were set for the short 
staple, and the second result would be found if the rollers 
were set for the long staple. Another evil result generally 
found when a mixing of this class is used, is that the 
shorter fibres, being of a less specific gravity, they are 
carried forward by the exhaust current or fan draft more 
rapidly than the longer ones, they thus form a thin sheet on 

28 



the top dust cage which in the succeeding" process of card- 
ing causes the laps to " Hck," or " spHt," as it is variously 
termed ; and as a result irregularities will be found in the 
sliver produced by the card, and the amount of waste made 
will be much increased. The speeds of the beaters and 
the angles of the grate bars also require to be modified 
for long or short stapled cottons, and this cannot be done 
when they are both being passed through the same machine 
at the same time. 

Cardinc;. — In the carding stage the dif^culty of setting 
the feed rollers again arises, more waste is made, and a 
weaker sliver is produced. The shorter fibres also make 
the card to require more frequent strippings, and if this is 
not attended to, the wire becomes rapidly overloaded. This 
will cause much of the longer-stapled cotton to be formed 
into " neps," which are a most objectionable feature. See 
question 8, Ord. G. 

Drawing. — In the drawing frame the setting of the draw- 
ing rollers at the proper working distances is the principal 
diiificulty encountered, for since we cannot set them for 
both classes of staple, if we set them for the long fibre some 
of the shorter ones will fall out and cause a large amount 
of waste, and if we set them for the shorter staple the 
longer fibres will be broken, and an abnormal quantity of 
top or flat waste will be made. In this case the only plan 
to be adopted is to set the rollers in an intermediate posi- 
tion, and even then the result will be a weak and cloudy 
sliver, when compared with one that has been produced 
from a regular mixing. 

Slubbing, Roving, and Spinning. — The results obtained 
from this mixing, as seen in the slubbing, roving, and spin- 
ning machines, may be taken together, as they are generally 
analogous. 

The difBculty of setting the drawing rollers, as explained 
previously, is encountered in these machines, and the same 



29 



undesirable results are found in the work produced. 

Further, during the operation of twisting, the longer fibres 
yet remaining unbroken are formed into the centre or core 
of the thread, and the shorter fibres are loosely twisted 
round these, not being properly incorporated into the 
thread, and contributing little if anything to its strength. 
This defect, when present in the yarn, is termed " crackers." 

From these facts we should infer that the yarn produced 
from such a mixing would be weak, oozy, or loosely com- 
pacted and irregular, and of a generally inferior character. 

Q. lo. — Is the mechanical mixing of cotton to be pre- 
ferred to hand mixing, or the reverse ? State the grounds 
of your opinion. 



A. — Mechanical mixing is generally preferred to hand 
mixing, owing mainly to its being more economical. The 
mechanical method is also an improvement on hand mixing, 
since it dispenses to a certain extent with the "manual" 
factor in the problem, which is always a variable one, as 
the "mixers" do not constantly pay that attention to their 
duties which they ought to do ; but sometimes instead of 
putting the bales down in regular layers, they will throw 
down the cotton indiscriminately, and consequently it is not 
mixed or blended in a proper manner. In mechanical mix- 
ing, the cotton being deposited from above, it devolves 
upon the attendant to level it over the area allotted to the 
mixing, and it is thus ensured that the work shall be per- 
formed in a more regular and systematic way than in hand 
mixing. 

O. II. — Describe the functions of the opener, the 
scutcher, and the finisher lap machines ; the derangements 
to which they are liable, and the manner in which the cot- 
ton passing through is injured by the occurrence of these 
deranoements. 



30 



A. — As is well known, cotton is received so matted 
together — due to the compression to which it has been 
subjected — as to render it necessary that the first operation 
it undergoes should have for its object the loosening and 
disentanglement of the mass so that it may be in such a 
condition as to readily submit to manipulation in subse- 
quent operations. To bring about this result is the primary 
function of the opener. (The hopper feeder has been gen- 
erally adopted since the publication of the first edition of 
this work.) 

Its secondary function is to extract the heavier impuri- 
ties, such as sand and other earthy matter. If the dust 
trunks and porcupine are attached to the machine, any 
superfluous moisture which may be present is in part evap- 
orated. In the majority of cases the opener has a lap 
forming attachment, when the formation of a lap may be 
considered as one of its functions. (The application of 
this attachment is now almost universal.) The functions 
of the scutcher or intermediate lap machine are, to further 
open the cotton and to extract the impurities passed with 
it through the opener ; a considerable quantity of the im- 
purities of a vegetable origin, such as seeds, leaf, and motes 
are taken out in this machine, and the amount of sand yet 
contained is diminished, as previously observed, openers 
have generally a lap attachment, therefore the scutcher is 
the first stage in the process where "doubling" is adopted, 
three or four laps from the opener being run together in 
the creel of this machine. The old method was for the 
opener to deposit the cotton on to the floor whence it was 
taken and fed by hand to the scutcher, a given weight being 
as far as possible spread equally upon a certain marked 
space of the feed lattice, so that in either case, equaliza- 
tion is to be considered as one of the functions of the 
scutcher. The functions of the finisher lap machine are: — 

I St. — To further perfect the cleanliness of the cotton. 



2nd. — To further open the fleece and brin^ it in a con- 
dition most suitable for the action of the Carding Engine. 

3rd. — To further equalize the sheet ; and it may here be 
stated that as this is the last stage in which the pneumatic 
principle is made use of, the lap as it leaves this machine 
should be even in the sheet, and level throughout, having 
well-made selvedges, and of an approximately uniform 
weight, since any defect in these points will only be 
diminished, and never entirely eradicated in the following 
processes. In considering the derangements to which these 
machines are liable, it will be well to consider the various 
items in their construction, which it is important to observe 
in order to produce satisfactory results. Then the derange- 
ments and misarrangements to which these machines are 
subject are numerous, and those which may be attributed 
to faulty constructions are* — 

(a) Feed rollers having too small a diameter. 

(^) Insuflficiently weighted feed rollers. 

(<:) Disadvantageous configuration of the nose of 

the pedals, or cotton holders, 
(rt') Doors and cases of the machine not air-tight. 
((?) Ends of dust cages not let into the framework 
. of the machine. 

We will now consider these points in detail. 

(a) If the feed rollers are too slender, they will spring 
or give way in the middle, and the cotton will be drawn 
through in lumps, and these will be passed on insufficiently 
opened and cleaned, and will probably retard the properly 
opened cotton in its passage to the dust cages, and thus 
cause irregularities in the lap. 

(<^) If the feed rollers be insufficiently weighted, we 
should have the cotton dealt with in the same way as in 
the preceding case, owing to the rollers not having suffi- 
cient grip or hold on the cotton, and similar defects will be 
found in the lap. 

32 



(c) If the " piano" feed regulator or evener is attached 
to the scutcher or lap machine the nose of the pedals should 
be rounded off so as to throw the " bite " of the feed roller 
further from the beater. If this is not done the fibre will 
be injured by having its convolute structure destroyed or 
materially impaired, and the fibres to some extent broken. 
This point should be specially observed when the long- 
stapled varieties of cotton are to be used ; though the better 
plan, when this class of cotton is to.be used, is to have an 
additional pair of feed rollers so arranged that the beater 
shall strike the cotton from the pair of rollers, and behind 
these are placed the levers or cotton holders with the single 
feed roller, for regulating purposes. 

(d) If the framework and doors of the machines are not 
made air-tight, so that the current induced by the fan may 
be collected from the proper source, the result will be an 
irregular lap. 

(e) If so much of the ends of the dust cages as is cov- 
ered by the hoops for staying or holding them together be 
not recessed or let in the framework, so that the current 
may act upon the whole breadth of the sheet, the selvedges 
of the lap will be thin and jagged, and unnecessary side 
waste will be made at the carding engine. 

The derangements to which they are liable, and the man- 
ner in which cotton is injured by their occurrence are as 

follows : — 

If the feed rollers are set too near the beater, there is a 
tendency to break the fibres and impair their natural con- 
figuration, whereby the yarn is weakened. 

If the blades or knives of the beaters are allowed to be- 
come so far worn that they do not at each stroke clear off 
all the cotton presented to their action by the feed rollers, 
but allows some portion of it to hang down toward the top 
bar, this portion will receive a second or third stroke from 
the' beater before it is liberated, and the same injurious 



33 



effects will follow as in the case of the feed rollers set too 
near the beater. Running the beater too quickly or having 
the beater bars set too near the circle described by the 
beater blades will affect the cotton in a similar manner. 

If any obstruction is allowed to accumulate either in the 
dust Hues or air passages, or if the perforations of the dust 
cages become closed from any cause, the draught or current 
will be affected, as also will be the regularity of the lap 

If the removal of the impurities from the dirt or leaf 
chambers is neglected, and they become full, the impurities 
contained in the cotton will be passed on to the lap ; the 
same result will follow if the current induced by the fan is 
too strong, and if this is too weak, a quantity of good fibre 
will be expelled with the "droppings" and leaf. The 
former derangement must be avoided, since it would deter- 
iorate the quality and appearance of the yarn, and the latter 
evil should be carefully guarded against, as it would entail 
a considerable loss. 

If the " piano" feed regulator is attached to any of the 
machines, care should be taken to keep it in good order 
and sufficiently sensitive, and if this appliance is driven by 
a belt or band, it should be kept at a proper tension, and 
in a good flexible condition; this must also be seen to in the 
belt connecting the two cones; if any of the "bowls" be- 
tween the pendant bars are worn, they must be renewed, as 
if any of these defects be present, an irregular lap will be 
made. 

(' Wifk a badly constructed or ufwiec/ianical evener, level 
and even running laps cannot be made.) 

If the lap rollers are weighted too heavily, or if the air 
current is so directed as to be too much upon the bottom 
dust cage, we should very probably have the laps "licking" 
or "splitting" when unrolled in the succeeding process. 

Another matter which in conjunction with the above ap- 
plies to all the machines in the "scutching" department is. 



34 



to see that all belts are sufficiently tight, and in proper 
condition, so that they may perform their work without any 
slipping, for if this is not attended to they will become 
too slack, and the various speeds of the machines will not 
hold their proper ratio to each other, and unsatisfactory re- 
sults will follow. 

Reference should be made to Ans., Ques; 8. Ord. Grade, 
in considering this question. 

O. 12. — Which principle of carding — roller or flat — is 
best for making, say first, a loosely compacted or "oozy" 
yarn that will take size well; and second, a dense, silky- 
looking thread that will make a good printing cloth ? 

A. From the perusal of the answer to question 9, Ord. 

Grade, it will be evident that the roller principle of carding is 
best adapted for producing a loosely compacted oozy yarn 
that will take size well, and for the productionof a dense, 
silky-looking thread, suitable for "Printers." or lightly sized 
goods, cards constructed on the revolving flat principle are 
the best. 

Q, 1 3. — What system of spinning, Hyer throsde, ring 
frame, or mule, is best for producing the yarns described in 
the previous question, and for the same purposes? 

A. There is no system of spinning which can produce 

so loosely compacted and oozy a yarn as the mule. 

The reasons that this machine can produce a better yarn 
of this description than either the ring frame or the flyer 
throstle are: It is capable of spinning yarns with a less 
number of turns per inch, owing to the drag necessary in 
the process of winding on not being applied until the yarn 
is brought up to its full strength, by having received its full 
number of turns. Its drag—/, e., force exerted upon the 



yarn b)- the counter or under "faller," is also so adjustable 
that the winding process can be accomplished with much 
less strain on the yarn than in either of the other machines 
mentioned. As this class of \'arn is obviously not so strong" 
as the dense, silky-looking thread, the above considerations, 
together with the fact that the centrifugal force generated 
during the process of twisting, causes a considerable quan- 
tity of fibres to project froni the surface, thus making the 
thread more hairy, place this machine in the foremost 
position for the production of this class of work. 

The fiyer throstle will produce the most dense and silky 
thread. 

Its superiority in this respect over the ring-frame and 
mule being chiefly attributable to the action of the flyer-leg 
on the thread during its passage to the bobbin, it having a 
smoothing and consolidating tendency, thus causing the 
maximum number of fibres to be incorporated into the 
thread, and a more sericeous or silky yarn is the result. 

Although this machine is capable of producing a smoother 
thread than the ring-frame, economical considerations have 
led to the adoption of the latter frame for this class of work, 
since it produces a thread which is better in this respect 
than the mule, thus placing it in an intermediate position to 
these two machines. The considerations which have prin- 
cipally led to the extensive use of the ring-frame, to the 
comparative exclusion of the Hyer throstle, are its greater 
productiveness and diminished cost of working. 

O. 14. — What hank roving should be used to get the 
best results in the following counts of yarns, each in low, 
medium, and good qualities: — Tzuisfs 16/24, 32/36, 40's, 
and 6o's; wefts 30's, 40's, 50's, 6o's. 70's, 8o's. 

(In questions i^ and i^ the student is desired to answer 
to those counts with zvhich he is most familiar.) 



36 



A. — Suitable hank rovino" (sinole) for the various coiuits 
^^iven in the question are : — 

Twists : 



Counts. 


16's 


24's 
2.99 


32's 


3(;'s 


40's 


60's 




2.11 


3.78 


4.13 


4.56 


6 38 






Wefts : 






\ 








Counts. 


30's 
3.59 


40's 


50's 
5.4,-) 


(lO's 


70's 


80's 




4.7r. 


t;.27 


7.20 


8 06 







These rovings will produce uood results for a medium qual- 
ity of yarn, and for a low quality we should g-o from about 
one quarter to one half hank coarser, and for a good qiialit)- 
about the same proportion finer in the hank of the roving. 

O. 15. — What should be the weight of lap used, and the 
draughts in the card, the drawing frame, the slubber, the 
intermediate, the roving and the spinning frame or mule, to 
give the best practical results from the material used in 
producing the yarns named in the previous question ? 

A. — This question is a very comprehensive one, and the 
answer is given without showing the method by which it has 
been obtained, as to do so would require such a multitude 
of figures as would probably make it less lucid and. perhaps, 
somewhat confusing. 

Draughts, etc., for Twists. — On reference to the sub- 
joined table it will be noticed that in setting out the draughts 
for i6's the intermediate frame is omitted, as it is generally 
considered to be unnecessary for these numbers. Three 
I heads of drawing are used with six ends up into one, at 



37 



each head. In the 24's the intermediate frame is introduced, 
since it is not deemed advisable to spin above 20's without 
it ; in the drawing frames the same number of heads are used 
and doubHngs made as in i6's. 

In 32's, 36's, and 40's there are eight ends "doubled" at 
the first head, and six at the second and third heads of 
drawing". In 6o's there are eight ends up at each of the 
three heads. Single rovinors are used for all the counts, 
both twist and weft. 

It will also be observed that the weight of the lap is given 
in ounces and fractions of an ounce per yard, and also in 
grains per yard. The hank of the lap is also given. For a 
good quality of 6o's twist the combing machine might be 
introduced with beneficial results. 



Counts. 



* Weight of Lap in ozs. . 

* " " grains 

Hanlv of Lap 

Dvaugiit in Card 

" "1st Drawing 

" 2ud 

" 3rd 
'* '• Slabbing . . . 

" " Inter 

" " Roving 

" " Spinning . . . 



16's 


24's 


32's 


36's 


40's 


13.70 


13.60 


12.69 


11.90 


11.53 


51)92 


5950 


5553 


5206 


5048 


.00129 


.0014 


.0015 


.0016 


.00165 


90.00 


100 


100 


100 


100 


6.00 


6.00 


8.00 


8.00 


8.00 


6.00 


6.00 


6.00 


6.00 


6.00 


6.00 


6.00 


6.00 


6.00 


6.00 


5.27 


3.41 


3.79 


3.88 


3.90 




4.58 


4.71 


4.84 


4.87 


6.13 


5.35 


5.65 


5.81 


5.84 


7.90 


8.02 


8.48 


8.72 


8.77 



60's 



10.53 
4508 
.00185 
100 
8.00 
8.00 
8.00 
4.19 
5.23 
6.28 
9.42 



* Weight per yard is given. 

Draughts, etc., for Wefts. — In examining the table for 
wefts it must be understood that in 30's there are six ends 
"doubled" at each of the three heads of drawing. In 40's 
and 50's eight ends are put up at the first head and six at 
the second and third heads. 70's and 8o's have eight ends 
"doubled" at each of the three heads. 



38 



Counts. 

Weight of Lap in ozs. .-. 
grains 

Hank of Lap 

Drauirht in Card 

•■ 1st I)ra^vin.ii■ 

" 2n(i 

" 8r(l 

■' Slnhbinii'. . . . 



30's 

12.45 
j44(; 
.0015 
100 



COO 


fi.OO 


G.OO 


•A.C,\ 



Inler 4.4( 

Rovinii'. . 
Spinning'. 



8. 30 



40's 

ll.itO 
520(; 

.ook; 

100 

s.oo 
t;.0() 

(1.00 

;!.'.)2 
4.90 

5.S,S 

8.s;5 



50'S 


GO'S 


70's 


11.20 


13.00 


11.07 


4900 


5(;,S9 


4843 


.0017 


.(H»i(;4 


.0017 


100 


no 


110 


S.OO 


S.OO 


8.00 


(i.OO. 


8.00 


8.00 


(i.OO 


8.00 


8.00 


4.09 


4.25 


4.45 


5.10 


5.31 


5.40 


(1.12 


(1.38 


(1.4S 


9.18 


9.5(1 


9.72 



80's 

9.31 
4074 
.0018 
110 
8.00 
8.00 
8.00 
4.43 
5.51 
6.62 
9.92 



These tables give the requisite draughts for a medium 
quaHty of the yarns to which they are subjoined, and for a 
good quality we should work a fraction finer throughout, 
while for a low quality we should keep a fraction coarser all 
through. 

( T/ie methods by whic/i these draughts have been obtai?ied 
and divided are given in the appendix.) 

Q. 1 6. — Some years ago it was the common practice in 
the slubbing, intermediate, and roving frames for the flyer 
to lead the bobbin; it was found, however, that the flyer 
started in advance of the bobbin, and by so doing made a 
thin place in the slub or rove. In order to remedy this, the 
arrangement was altered, and the bobbin made to lead, in 
the belief that the flyer would still start first, and only cause 
a little slack, which would soon be taken up and do no harm. 
Was this belief correct? Explain the reason why the flyer 
started in advance, and especially say if the alteration has 
proved to be a remedy ; and if not, why not ? 

A. — In the answer to this question the three sections into 

39 



which it is divided are not dealt with in the same order in 
which they are given, since it is thought it may lead to a 
better conception of the subject if they are taken in the 
following order : — 

I St. — "Explain the reason why the flyer started in advance 
of the bobbin." 

2nd. — "Was the belief correct that in bobbin-leading 
frames the flyer would start first and only cause a little slack 
which would soon be taken up and do no harm?" 

3rd. — "Especially say if the alteration has proved a rem- 
edy." 

Taking these sections in this order, we must first inquire 
why the flyer starts in advance of the bobbin ; and the reason 
is, that since the motion to the bobbins is transmitted through 
a greater number of wheels than the motion communicated 
to the spindles, and consequently to the flyers — the actual 
number of wheels in each train being bobbins nine, flyers 
five — therefore it follows that the flyers must start before the 
bobbins, owing to the sum of the "backlash" in the nine 
wheels driving the bobbins being greater than that of the 
five wheels driving the flyers. It may be said that owing to 
the flyer starting first and having, as it were, to lap the rove 
round the bobbin— because the bobbin has the least velocity 
— and their velocities at the instant of starting not being in 
the required ratio the rove will be stretched in frames which 
have the flyer leading. And here it may be permitted re- 
spectfully to differ from several recent works on cotton 
spinning, the authors of which seem, in the opinion of the 
present writer, to be somewhat under a misconception as to 
the cause of the flyer starting in advance of the bobbin, 
since in the works referred to the non-positive factor in the 
motion of the bobbins or the slipping of the strap or belt 
drivinof the bottom cone drum is oriven as the cause. 

It will be both interesting and instructive to examine this 
question in detail. Consider for a moment what happens 
when a frame is doffed. The bottom cone drum Is raised, 

40 



which causes the " sun" wheel to stop, and no winding takes 
place. The following calculation will show that winding 
cannot take place when the bottom cone is stopped. 

A 42 on frame shaft drives a 42 on spindle shaft, a 55 on 
spindle shaft drives a 22 on spindles. Revolutions of frame 
shaft. 517. This gives ^^^^ = 1,297.5 ^^ the number of 
revolutions of the spindles per minute. 

Now, when the sun wheel is stationary after the stopping 
of the bottom cone, it ceases to be a factor in the motion of 
the bobbins, and the only motion they possess is that ac- 
quired direct from the frame shaft, which has a constant 
velocity, and under these conditions we may find the revo- 
lutions of the bobbins as follows : — Revolutions of frame 
shaft, as before, 517. A 56 on boss of loose bevel drives 
through two carriers in the swing; a 56 on bobbin shaft and 
a 55 on bobbin shaft drives a 22 washer or bobbin wheel. 
Then the revolutions of the bobbins from these particulars 
are^-^iif = 1,297.5. 

These are the revolutions of the bobbins per minute, 
without the agency of the differential motion. 

From the above it is evident that under these circum- 
stances, the bobbins and the spindles both have the same 
number of revolutions per minute. 

Now suppose, at the time of "doffing" the bobbin is 4 
ins. in diameter, its circumferential velocity will be "^'•f*"'" 
= 4,077.85 inches per minute. 

Now, the foot of the presser being by centrepetal force 
in juxtaposition with the periphery of the bobbin, it will, in 
one revolution describe a circle having a radius equal to the 
radius of the circle described by the periphery of the bobbin. 
Therefore the radii of the circles described by each being 
equal, and the number of revolutions of each being equal, 
the circumferential velocity or the space described by each 
per minute will be the same, therefore no winding can take 
place. 

As a corollary to the above, we should say that the slip- 

41 



ping of the cone belt on starting the frame would tend to 
ease the rove rather than stretch it, whether we have the 
bobbin or the flyer leading. So that the reason previously 
given is the only cause of the stretching of the rove. 

In considering the second section of the question we 
must remember that when the flyer is leading, the winding 
is accomplished by the velocity of the flyer being greater 
than that of the bobbin, and this difference will be better 
understood by an example being given. 

Say the front roller delivers 500 inches of rove per min- 
ute, then taking the circumferential velocity of the bobbin, 
at any time, at 4,500 ins. per minute, then the flyer must 
pass through a space of 4,500 + 500=5,000 ins. per minute, 
and as explained previously, the flyer starting in advance of 
the bobbin, it must cause the rove to be stretched. 

In frames which have the bobbin leading, the converse 
arrangement to the above is adopted, the bobbin having as 
it were to take the rove from the flyer, therefore its circum- 
ferential velocity must be the same as that of the flyer, plus 
the velocity of the front roller. This being the case, it 
follows that in bobbin leading frames the flyer starting in 
advance will cause a little slack, which will be taken up 
when the full velocity has been attained. 

With regard to the question, " whether the alteration has 
proved a remedy." 

It has certainly remedied the stretching of the rove, and 
has also eliminated another minor evil, i. e., when an end 
broke the bobbin unroved itself, making waste, and this 
does not occur when the bobbin leads. But considering all 
the points pro and con, the frames which have the bobbin 
leading are admittedly the best. 

Q. 17. — What are yarn agents, and what are the duties 
they ought properly to perform for spinners? State the 
terms on which yarns are usually sold to the home trade, 
and to the shipping or export trade. 

42 



A Yarn agents are persons who buy or sell yarn. 

a,e. lo sell tiie > ^^^^^^^ accounts for 

whose solvency hey are sure a ^^_^ ^^ 

,.n.ac.ons c— ^ V ^^^^^^^^^^ j:^-::eeing and non- 

Trarr^ ^ rte grarLneein^ agents do not in.ornr the 

fr:..sthepur.^^^^^^^^ 

they are allowed ^ per cent. nc) 

Dpr cent, commission. . , • 

^ The non-gt,aranteeing agents inform the ^P>"-^«'^° '^ 

%T *: :e:n:r:::hlch yams are soM to the hon.e trade 

^^ xU^rs'^n whict ya--- usually sold to the ship- 
• ™Lt tride are- ^ per cent, discount, .f payment 

allowed 95 days niterest, at 5 per cent., on 



same. 



43 



APPENDIX. 



COTTON SPINNING. 



CONE DRUMS IN SLUBBING INTERMEDIATE; AND 
ROVING FRAMES. 



Cone drums in spindle and fly frames are introduced 
to regulate the winding of the rove upon the bobbins, 
which must be accomplished without its being elongated or 
stretched in the slightest degree, i. e., if 500 inches of rove 
are delivered by the front roller per minute, there must be 
exactly the same length deposited on the bobbin per min- 
ute ; and as the diameter of the bobbin is increased at each 
upward or downward change of the traverse, by twice the 
diameter of one ply of rove, the velocity of the bobbin must 
be accelerated or retarded ; accelerated if the flyer leads the 
bobbin, and retarded if the bobbin leads the flyer; this 
acceleration or retardation, as the case may be, is obtained 
through the medium of the cone drums, and must have a 
constant ratio. To obtain this differentiation in a constant 
ratio the cone drums must be rotary surfaces of the same para- 
bolic curve, the top or driving cone being concave, and the 
bottom or driven cone convex. They must be constructed 
in such a manner that in moving the belt towards the 
opposite end of the top cone, the number of revolutions of 
the bottom cone must decrease in the same proportion as 
the length the belt has been moved. Thus: — Suppose the 
number of revolutions of the bottom cone decrease by 8 on 
moving the belt one inch; then on moving the belt, say 

44 



,o inches, the revolutions of the bottom cone should be 
decreased by 80. This could not take place . the cones 
were rotary surfaces of a straight line, i. e.. of a st,a ght 
taoer We must now proceed to demonstrate these the- 
orems. First we may say in dealing with these questions 
that the distance of the axis of the two cones from each 
other must be the same at all points, or n. other words^ 
they must be exactly parallel, and that the sum of the two 
circles described by the centre line of the belt must be 
equal at any position of the belt. These pomts must be 
observed or the belt will not always be at the same tension. 
Further the belt must always be parallel to the position 
it occupied at the end of the drums. Also, in calculating 
the different speeds, we must assume that the same number 
of revolutions would be produced as if the cones were 
replaced by two drums of the same diameters as those 
circles round which the centre line of the belt is moving. 
Suppose the diameter of the thick ends of the cones to be 
6 inches, and the diameter of the smaller ends 3 inches, and 
that its length be 30 inches. Then, if the driving cone 
makes i so revolutions per minute, the number of revolu- 
tions of ihe driven cone when the belt is on the smallest 
diameter, and consequently on the largest diameter o he 
driving cone will be 'i? = 300. Now the diameters of the 
drums at the centre will be ^h inches each. If we suppose 
in the first instance the cones are a straight bevel, and the 
number of revolutions of each will be 1 50 per minute. Now 
let us suppose the driving cone to be produced to its apex, 
we can find the length of this supplementary cone by the 
following simple application of the proportion rule:-As 
the length of the supplementary cone is to the tota 
lencrth of the drum, so is the diameter of the smaller end of 
the^drum to the diameter of its larger end or base. 

If we designate the length of the supplementary cone by 
.X (being the unknown quantity) we can obtain its corre- 
sponding numerical value as follows; 

45 



X : {^:,o + .r) 
•■• 6 x =90 + 3 X 
.'. 6 X — 3 X = 90 

•■• 3 •^' =90 
X = 90 



3 



;o 



Therefore the length of the side of the supplementary cone 
is 30 inches. 

By a process very similar to the above we can obtain the 
diameters of the drums at any point. Suppose we move 
the belt i inch toward the smaller end of the driving cone ; 
the diameter of the circle described by the centre line of the 
belt would then be 

-^o : (30 + 29) : : 3 : .r 
•• • 3 X 59 

30 =5-9 inches. 
And since the sum of the diameters of the two cones must 
be nine inches, the corresponding diameter of the driven 
cone must be 9 — 5.9 = 3. i inches and the number of rev- 
olutions it makes per minute will be "^^ = 285.49. 

As before we may obtain the number of revolutions of 
the driven cone and its diameter and also the diameter of 
the driving cone for each inch the belt is moved, which 
are obtained and tabulated under, for six positions of the 
belt. 



Distance of 

centre of belt 

from apex of 

cone. 


Diameter of 

top or driving 

cone. 


Diameter of 

bottom or driven 

cone. 


No. of 

revolutions of 

the driven cone 

per minute. 


Decrease of 

number of 
levolutions of 
diiven cone. 


60 
59 

58 
57 
56 
55 


6 

5.9 

5.8 

5.7 

5.6 

5.5 


3 

3.1 

3.2 

3.3 

3.4 

3.5 


300 
285.40 
271.87 
259.09 
247.06 
235.71 


14.51 
13.62 
12.7s 
12.03 
11.35 



46 



If we examine the above table we shall find that the 
decrease m the number of revolutions of the driven cone 
diminishes each time the belt is moved toward the smaller 
end of the driving cone, and thus it is not proportional to 
the lateral traverse of the belt. We have seen thus far 
that the differentiation will not be proportional to the lateral 
traverse of the belt, if the cones are of a straight bevel. 
And as in the spindle and fly frames it is absolutely neces- 
sary that the difference in the velocity of the driven cone 
be in exact proportion to the lateral traverse of the belt. 
We must now endeavor to find that shape of the conical 
surfaces which will produce this : — 

REQUIRED VELOCITY. 
For example: — Suppose we require our driven cone to 
decrease from 300 to 75 revolutions per minute, and to 
have a decrease of 7^ revolutions for each inch the belt is 
moved. Then the length of the axes of our cones must be 
^ ^ .Q inches. Take the largest diameter of the driving 
cone at 6 inches. Then the corresponding smallest diame- 
ter of the driven cone must be Ijf" = 3 inches. 

The dimensions we have now obtained are as before : — 
Length of axis, :^o inches; largest diameter of driving cone, 
6 inches; corresponding least diameter of driven cone, 3 
inches. Therefore, also, the sum of the diameters of the 
two cones is again 9 inches. 

Considering, in the first instance, the driven cone, we 
must now take a line 30 inches long to represent the axis 
of the cone and divide it into 30 equal parts, each being 
one inch long, and through each of these points draw a 
straight line at right angles to the axis ; and on the first of 
these lines at the smaller end of the cone set off i^ inches 
on each side of the axis, which will represent the smaller 
diameter of the driven cone = 3 inches. 

The length to be measured along the next vertical line 



47 



may be found thus: — If we denominate the diameter of the 
driving cone by d and the corresponding diameter of the 
driven cone by e since the number of revolutions of the cone 
e must now be 300 — 7.5 = 292.5. We know that 150 x «^ 
= 292.5 X ^- .'• <^ = ^^ = 1.95 e. And we also know that 
\}ci^ d -\- e must equal nine inches. Therefore d^g — e. 
If we now take these two values of e and place them equal 
to each other, by an easy application of simple equations 
we have 

1.95^ = g — e 
r.e + 1.95^ = 9 
also ^(14- 1-95) =9 
•■• 2.95^= 9 
9 
.•. e = = 3.05 inches. 

2-95 

This 3.05 is the length to be measured on the second per- 
pendicular, and if we set off one-half of this length on each 
side of the axis we shall have two other points in the curves 
of the driven cone. 

By calculations, analogous to the above, we have 

e = 3.104 

- • 

e = 3.16 etc. 

3 

If we proceed in this way and connect all the points thus 
obtained, we shall have a curve by whose rotation the 
required form of cone will be described. 

If we now subtract these values of e, e, e, e, etc., from 9 
inches, and proceed as in the pre- ^ " ^ 

vious case we shall obtain a curve similar to the last, with 
the exception that it will be concave, while the previous one 
is convex. These concave curves are those by whose ro- 
tations the surface of the drivins: cone will be described. 
On examination these cones will be found to be parabola. 

48 



}sfote. — A parabola is a plane section of a right conical 
surface, ivhich is at all points equidistant from 'a fixed 
point and a fixed straight line, termed respectively the focus 
and the directrex. 

We have thus shown that cones of a straight bevel will 
not answer our purpose, and have found the method by 
which the required conical surfaces can be obtained. 



RULES AND EXAMPLES. 

To find the total length of yarn produced by a mill per 
week in hanks, the weights spun of the various counts 
being known. 

Rule : — Multiply the iveights produced of the various 
counts by their numbers, and the sum of these results will 
be the total length. 

Example: — A mill produces 2,500 lbs. 30s, 3,000 lbs. 
36's, 5,000 lbs. 40's, 8,000 lbs. 50's, and 2,000 lbs. 6o's, 
what will be the total length ? 

2,500 X 30 = 75,000 = length of 30's produced. 
3,000 X 36 = 108,000 = " 36's 

5,000 X 40 = 200,000 = " 40's " 

8,000 X 50 ^ 400,000 = " 50's 

2,000 X 60 = 120,000= " 6o's " 



The sum of these = 903,000 = Total length in hanks. 

49 



To find the average counts spun. 

Rule : — Divide the length in hanks spM?i per week by the 
total zveight produced in pounds, and the quotient will be the 
average counts. 

Example : — Take the particulars of the previous example, 
and find the average counts? 

Then 
Total length ^= 903.000 

= 44.05 average counts. 

Total weight = 20,500 



To find the production in ounces per spindle per week. 

Rule : — Multiply the weight iji pounds spun per iveek by 
16, and this will give the ounces per zueek, which divided by 
the nu7nber of spindles contained in the mill zvill give the 
ounces per spindle. 

Example : — Taking the particulars as before, and the mill 
as containing 30,000 spindles, find the ounces per spindle 
per week. 
Then 

20,500 X 16 

= 10.93 ozs. per spindle. 

30,000 



To find the number of hanks per spindle produced per 
week. 

Rule : — Divide the length in hanks produced by the num- 
ber of spindles, and the quotient ivill be the hanks per spindle. 



50 



Example:— Production 903,000 hanks, number of spindles 
30,000; find the hanks per spindle. 
Then 

903,000 . 
= 30.10 hanks per spindle. 



30,000 



To find the number of hours continual running that would 
be required for a pair of mules to produce any number of 
hanks per spindle of any counts. 

jiuie —Multiply the turns per inch of the counts spun 
by the product of 840X36. this will give the turns in one 
hank Then the product of the turns per hank, and the 
number of hanks given, divided by the number of revolu- 
tions of the spindles per hour, im 1 1 give the number of hours 
required. 

Example.— A pair of mules produces 28 hanks per 
spindle of 36s weft. Find the number of hours required 
to produce this number of hanks, assuming that the "wheels 
were continuous spinning machines, and no stoppage to 
take place. 

Turns per inch 36's W = i9-5- 

Turns in i hank of 36's = i9-5 X 36 X 840. 

Revolution of spindles = 7,500 per minute. 

Then 

19.5X36X840X28 . 
= 36.42 hours required. 

7500X60 



To find the approximate number of spindles with prepa- 
ration, that one indicated horse power will drive. 

Rule.— Take 100 spindles per horse power for 60s, add i 
spindle for each 2 hanks finer, and deduct i spindle for each 
2 hanks coarser, in the numbers to be spun. 

51 



Example: — How many indicated horse power will be re- 
quired to drive a mill spinning 50's, and containing 60,000 
spindles? 

60 — 50=10 .'. 10=5= No. of spindles to be deducted. 

2 
.-. 60,000 
= 632 nearly == horse power required. 



1 00 — 5 

The above will form a good basis to work upon, since it 
is obtained from the number of spindles and indications, of 
many mills actually at work. 



To find the cost per pound of cotton at the carding engine 
head. 

This will be best shown by an example. 200 lbs. of cot- 
ton are passed through the opener and scutchers, and on 
the finished laps being weighed, it is found to have lost 1 1 
lbs. 5 ozs. Then the loss per cent, in this process is found 
as under: — 

1 1.3 125 X 100 

= 5.65 per cent. 

200 

A lap from this cotton, weighing 25 lbs. 1 1 ozs., is passed 
through the carding engine, and when re-weighed, it is 
found to have lost i lb. 9 ozs. 

Then, as before, the loss per cent, is 
1.5625 X 100 

= 6.08 per cent. 

25.6875 

Then the total loss is 

5-65 
6.08 

1 1 .73 per cent. 

52 



Now, suppose this lot of cotton cost 5 ^id. per lb., its cost 
at the engine head may be found thus: — 100 X 5 a'i = 553^ 
pence == amount paid for 100 pounds. But this 100 lbs. 
when passed through the scutching and carding, only gives 
100 — 1 1.73 = 88.27 lbs. 

Therefore, 

553-125 

= 6.30 pence per lb. cost at engine head. 

88.27 
English pence x ~ = American cents, 



To find the total draught in slubbing, intermediate rov- 
ing, and mule or spinning frame inclusive. 

Rule : — Multiply the counts being spun by the 7iumber of 
doublings in these machines. a7id divide this product by the 
Jia7ik of the sliver put up behind the slubbiiig frame, and 
the quotient will be the total draught required. 

Example: — Find the total draught when the hank sliver 
is .16 and the counts 40's, two ends up at intermediate, and 
two at roving frame, and single roving in the mule. 
Then 

40X2X2 

== T ,000 total draught required. 

.16 



To divide the above total draught into any desired pro- 
portion between the slubbing, intermediate, roving frames, 
and the mule or ring frame, as the case may be. 

Rule I. — First, it must be decided in zv hat proportion the 
total draught shall be divided ; and, for example^ we will 
suppose that it is desired to divide it iti the pj'oportion of 
9, 6, 5, y por the mule., roving, intermediate, and slubbing 

53 



respectively. Then multiply these supposed dra^ights to- 
gether', and extract the biquadrate or fourth root of the 
product. 

Then extract the biquadrate root of the total dra^ight 
required to be divided, and by multiplying this root by the 
siLpposed draught or proportion of each machine, and di- 
vidiftg the product by the biquadrate root of the product 
of the s7ipposed draughts or ratios^ we shall obtain the 
draughts for each machine. 

Example: — 40's weft is spun from a sliver of .16 hank to 
the pound, put up behind the slubbing frame. There are 
two doublings at the intermediate, and two at the roving 
frame. The total draught being i ,000, divide this draught 
between the slubbing, intermediate, and roving frame and 
the mule in the ratio 9, 6, 5, 4 respectively? 

Biquadrate root, 1,000 = 5.62 

of product of 9X6X5X4 = 1080 

= 5-73 



Then 

5.62X9 



And 



Also 



Also 



5-73 
5.62X6 

5-73 

5-62X5 

5-73 

5-62X4 

5-73 



'&.'^}, draught in mule. 



5.88 " " roving. 



= 4.90 " " intermediate. 

= 3.92 " " slubbing. 

54 



Rule II. — III cases where tJiei^e are only three draiights 
— as in low mimbers ivhere the intermediate frame is not 
required — wc should use the cube root in both iiistances in 
place of the bigiiadrate root used in Rnle I 

Example: — Assuming that 20's twist is spun from a .125 
hank sHver, what will be the total- draught from slubber to 
spinning frame when the intermediate frame is omitted, and 
how must this drausfht be divided? 

Suppose the draught is divided in the ratio 9:6:5 for 
spinning, roving and slubbing respectively. 

Then 

3 X 20 

zzzi 320 total draught. 

•125 
And 

V3/320 =16.8399 
Again, product of 

9X6X5 = 270 and v^^2 70 = 6.4634 
Then, as before, 
6.8399 X 9 

9.5 I = draught in spinning frame. 



And 



Also 



64633 


- y-5 ' — 


6.8399 X 6 


= 6.35 = 


6.4633 


6.8399 X 5 


_ r oA 



6.4633 



"ovmg 



slubbing " 



Note. — The fourth root of a number is obtained as fol- 
lozvs : Extract the square root of the number, and the 
sqiiare root of the number obtained is the biquadrate or 
fourth root reqtiired. 

55 



Example: — Find the biquadrate root of i ,000. 

y* 1 ,000 = 3 1 .62 and y/ 3 i .62 = 5.62 — answer. 



An approximate method of dividing the total draught in 
drawing frames having four lines of drawing rollers. 

Rule: — For the middle d7^a2Lght take the cube root of 
the total draught, and the square root oj this middle 
draught will give an approximate back draiight. The 
quotient of the product of these tzvo nitmbers divided Into 
the total draitght will give a stiltable number for the frojit 
di^au^ht. 

Example: — If the total draught In a drawing frame is 8, 
find the back, middle, and front draughts by the above rule. 
Then 

^8 = 2 = middle draught. 
And 

y/ 2 = 1 .40 ^ back " 
Therefore 



2 X 140 



2.86= front 



"DIVIDENDS" OR ^'CONSTANT NUMBERS.' 

' These numbers are exceedingly useful to overseers and 
managers generally. 

They are especially of great practical utility in those mills 
which spin a large range of numbers, thus necessitating 
frequent changes both In the spinning and carding depart- 

56 



ments, since they bring out results very briefly, which to 
obtain by an ordinary rule would involve the employment 
of a considerable number of fig^ures. 

The term "dividend" is here used in the sense in which 
it is applied to the loom. It is a number, which divided by 
the result we require, will give as an answer the change 
wheel or "pinion" to produce that result; and conversely, 
if it is required to find the draught, turns per inch, etc., of 
a frame, then the constant number for the draus^ht, or for 
the turns, divided by the change wheel or pinion working, 
will give as a quotient the required result. 

To find the dividend or constant number for obtainino- 
the draught in slubbing, intermediate, and roving frames. 

Riile : — Multiply all the driving wheels — except the 
cJia7ige pinion — and the diameter of the back roller for a 
divisor^ and all the driven wheels and the diameter of the 
front roller, for a dividend ; and the quotient will be the 
constant mt?nber required. 

Example: — What will be the constant number for 
draught in a frame of the following particulars: — 
Wheel on the front roller, 20 teeth. 
Wheel on the back roller, 48 teeth. 
Crown wheel, 80 teeth. 
Diameter of back roller, i^ inches. 
Diameter of front roller, i^ inches. 
Then the driver is 20 on front roller, and the driven 
are 80 and 48. 

Then by rule 

80 X 48 X li 

= 192 :=: dividend required. 

20 X 14 

Now, say we require a draught of 4 in this frame, we 
must divide this 192 by 4, and the quotient will be the 
change pinion to produce the draught. 



0/ 



Therefore, 
192 



48 = pinion required. 



4 
Again, suppose that there is a 50 change pinion working 
on this frame, then to find the draught we adopt the con- 
verse method to the above, and divide 192 by the pinion. 
That is, 
192 

= 3,84 = draught of frame. 

50 
The above rule is equally applicable to the various spin- 
ning frames and to drawing frames. 



To find the constant number for obtaining the number of 
revolutions of the spindles to one revolution of the front 
roller. 

Rule: — Divide the product of all the driving ivheeh from the 
front roller to the spindles hy the product of all the driven wheels — 
except the twist wheel — and the quotient will be the dividend or con- 
stant number required. 

Example: — What will be the dividend for obtaining the 
turns of the spindles to one of the front roller, in a frame 
having the following particulars: — 

1 12's wheel on front roller, geared with a 

64's " end of top cone drum shaft; a 

54's " top cone drum shaft, geared with 

28's " twist wheel; 

64's " twist wheel stud, geared with a 

48's " Jack or frame shaft; 

42's " end of Jack shaft drives a 

42's " end of spindle shaft ; 

55's " spindle shaft drives a 

22's " spindles. 

58 



Then 

112 X S4 X 64 X 42 X 55 

. = 315 = constant 

64 X 48 X 42 X 22 number required. 

Therefore the turns of the spindles to one of the rolle 



315 
= 11.25 

28 

If we required the spindles to make 10.5 revolution to 

one revolution of the front roller, 

Then 

_^ =z 30 ^ twist wheel required. 

10.5 
The above are the particulars of a frame driven by an 
upright or vertical shaft— a most convenient method when 
pressed for space— instead of being driven from the frame 
end. This method of driving renders the introduction of a 
twist wheel stud necessary. 

For a frame driven in the ordinary wa)', from the frame 
end, the constant number would be found as under:— 

Take the particulars of the previous example, but substi- 
tute for the 64's carrier, and the 28's twist wheels, a 2rs 
twist wheel on the end of the frame shaft, then the constant 
number would be 

1T2 X S4 X 42 X 55 
■ = 236.25 

64 X 42 X 22 



To find the constant number or dividend, for obtaining the 
turns per inch in slubbing, intermediate, and roving frames. 

Eule -—Divide the constant numher for obtaining the turns of 
the spindles, to one of the roller, by the circumference of the roller, 
and the quotient will be the constant number required. 

59 



This number divided by the number of teeth in the twist wheel 
will give as quotient the number of turns per inch being put in the 
rove; and if it be divided by the turns per inch it is desired to put 
in, the result toill be, the number of teeth in the twist wheel necessary 
for obtaining this number of turns. 

Example : — If the constant number for obtaining the turns 
of the spindles to one of the front roller be 315, find the 
constant number for obtaining the turns per inch, the diam- 
eter of the front roller being \\ inches. 

First — Find the circumference of the roller from the given 
diameter, by multiplying the diameter by 3^, thus: — 

li X 3' == ^ X ¥ = ^i = 3-929 nearly. 

Then 

315 
= 80. 1 7 constant number required. 

3-929 
Then if this frame has on a 28's twist wheel, the turns 

per inch it is putting into the rove will be: — 

80.17 

= 2.86 

28 
Again, suppose it is required to put in 3.08 turns per 
inch, 

Then 

80.17 

= 26 = twist wheel required. 

3.08 



MISCELLANEOUS DATA, ETC. 

The number of operatives per thousand spindles in such 
mills as are organized to spin all their yarns, differs ma- 
terially in mills making approximately the same class of 
goods. For comparative purposes the subjoined table may 
be of value : — 

60 



TABLE A. 



Mill . 


No. of 
Spindles. 


Average 
Counts. 


Goods Made. 


No. of 
Operatives 
per M. Spls. 


"Wages per 
M. Spindles 


Style. 


Width. 


per week. 


A 


18,356 


30.65 


Twill and Plain. 


33" to 45" 


9.90 


61.10 


B 


28,403 


32.01 


Plain. 


40" 


10.75 


60.72 


C 


41,136 


35.22 


Sateens & Fancies. 


28" to 42" 


10.12 


61.43 


D 


27,810 


29.72 


Plain. 


38' to 92' 


11.96 


67.80 


E 


101,312 


29.73 


Plain and Drills. 


38"to 44" 


12.01 


70.70 


F 


25,316 


51.12 


Cambric. 


40', 


10.01 


58.21 


G 


4,211 


32.19 


Plain. 


40' 


13.21 


68.18 


H 


18,325 


21.16 


Plain. 


32" to 40" 


16.11 


53.29 



An examination of these figures will show some inter- 
esting contrasts. 

WASTE AND COTTON TESTING. 

The waste question is one which has been given much 
thought, and it is also a matter of paramount importance in 
successful mill management. In Table B are given the 
pounds of cotton consumed and waste made per spindle 
per annum by the mills shown in Table A. 

Simila7' letters indicate the same mills in both tables. 

TABLE B. 



Pounds of Cotton 
consumed. 



59.09 
55.85 
51.17 
63.04 
66.02 
36.57 

99.72 



Pounds of Waste 
made. 



8.02 
7.50 
6.22 
8.72 
8.81 
4.14 

9.12 



.6 I 



A system of keeping accurate and comprehensive records 
of the detail of waste production, will amply repay any time 
and expenditure necessary to its complete carrying out, and 
will frequently bring to light unsuspected losses that might be 
stopped by more careful supervision. The periodic testing 
of each lot of cotton through the pickers and cards, carefully 
made and recorded in a book kept for that purpose, will at 
times prove that an apparently cheap purchase is really an 
expensive one, from the fact that the cheapest lot at first cost 
contained an unusual proportion of unripe or imperfectly 
developed fibre, or that an abnormal amount of seed, leaf or 
other foreign matter was present. When combed yarns are 
to be produced it is also advisable to pass a sample through 
the comber (without altering the settings of the machine) 
this will give an approximately correct indication of the per- 
centage of short staple in the sample. 

Many mills make a rough test for moisture by exposing 
one or two hundred pounds spread loosely on the floor of 
the card room for twenty-four hours, and after re-weighing 
and again exposing the sample to a normal temperature for 
the same length of time the material is again weighed and 
any moisture artificially introduced may thus be discovered. 
The second exposure under normal conditions allows the 
cotton to re-absorb its ''zuater of hydration',' which is par- 
tially evaporated during the time it is exposed to the heated 
atmosphere in the mill. 

(See page 52). 



ORGANIZATION, LABOR COST, ETC., OF AN ENGLISH 
YARN MILL. 

Number of mule spindles, 69,300 

" " frame " 5.120 

Total, 74420 

62 





Doubliugs. 


Draft. 


Weight. 


Speed. 


No. of Delys 
or Spindles. 







8.37 






1 


Breaker F 







14 oz. 


445 


3 




4 ami 3 




10^ oz. 


051 


O 







111 
to 
129.5 


30 and 36 


8i to 12 


00 






Derby Doublers 


1(5 


2 


240 & 288 


331 


!) 


Ribbon Lappers 


(1 


o.k; 

and 
fi. 54 


240 
and 

288 


240 


;t 


C'ombers 


8 


30.47 


40 & 55 


,S4 


.")3 




5 and <i 


4.8(; 

to 

6.73 




241 
and 
292 


60 








c 


5.80 
to 




.^ 


60 




(i 


(').73 

(i.4 

to 

(;.tl2 


32.5 
to 
43.7 




60 











5.55 
and 

5.81 


1.07 HK 
1.20 " 
1.38 " 


380 


840 








2 


5.40 

to 

5.74 


2.02 " 
3.47 " 

3.87 " 


650 


2720 








2 


G.27 
5.05 
6.0 




10 " 
14 " 


1132 


8528 







Note: — One bale breaker will open 20 bales per day. 
Waste taken out at combers, 16% and 18%. Four grades 
of cotton are used. 



Total labor cost carding dept., 9 hank carded, /o^oC. per lb. 

it a a 4 1 a j-^ «i i4 _2a.p " " 

HJ 1 00 *-• 



MULES 1050, SPINDLES 64", STRETCH ROLLER MOTION 4", 
SPINNING DOUBLING WEFT. 





Rov of 
Spindles. 


Turns 
per in. 


Gain 
inches. 


Production 

weekly 
in pounds. 


Weekly 

per 
Spindle 


Stretches. 


in 
Seconds 


Distance rolls. 


Counts. 


Front to [ Middle 
Middle. :to Back. 


36 B. S. 


7757 


17.26 


2.97 


1540 


.73 


4 


59 


1-3^ i li 


40 " " 


" 


18.23 


" 


1320 


.63 


4 


60 




" 


45 " " 


" 


19.20 


" 


1160 


.55 


3 


50 




" 


50 " " 


" 


20.40 


3.80 


1000 


.48 


3 


53 




" 


58 " " 


" 


22.24 


" 


820 


.39 


Pi 


55 


" ' " 


45 C. S. 




19.20 


2.97 


1160 


.55 


3 


50 




" 


50 " " 




20.42 


3.80 


1000 


.48 




53 




" 


20 D. S. 


5171 


11. 30 


2.97 


2500 


1.19 




61 




24 " " 


6205 


12.54 


■' 


2400 


1.14 




58 




28 " " 


6722 


12.91 


'■ 


1950 


.93 




57 




30 " " 




13.54 


- 


1820 


.86 




58 




36 " " 


7759 


15.07 


" 


1650 


.78 




58 




40 " " 


" 


16.04 


- 


1320 


.63 




60 






54 " " 


" 


20.90 


3.80 


920 


.44 


3 


53 






58 " " 




22.36 


" 


820 


.39 


g 


55 






66 " " 


- 


24.06 


5.43 


700 


.33 


3 


57|^ 






48 F. S. 


'■ 


19.93 


3.80 


1050 


.50 






13^ 




76 " " 


" 


25.76 


6.46 


550 


.26 


3 


62i 


" 





The productions given above are for a week of 56^ hours. 



64 



EXAMINATIONS IN COTTON SPINNING. 

In May. 1889, a new departure was made in the examina- 
tions, conducted by the City and Guilds of London, in cotton 

manufacture. 

Previous to that time the examination in this subject 
embraced both the spinning and weaving divisions of the 
trade, but in this year it was divided into two sections, and 
two papers were set, one in Cotton Spinning and another 
in Cotton Weaving. 

This being the case, a new syllabus was issued, and that 
for the spinning examination is included in this work for the 
information of those who are preparing for this examination. 

The syllabus is retained in this edition for the informa- 
tion of the large and increasing number of those who 
recognize the important influence technical education must 
necessarily have in the future progress of the American 
textile industries. 



65 



SYLLABUS. 



19b. COTTON MANUFACTURE, 



SECTION I.— COTTON SPINNING. 



The examination will include questions founded on such 
subjects as the following: — 

I . — The geographical position of the world's cotton fields, 
and suitable regions to which it may be introduced. 

2. — Cotton cultivation, and the various causes of damage 
to the fibre during growing and picking seasons, with the 
date of planting and picking in all cotton growing countries. 

3. — The mode of preparing the raw material, cotton gins, 
ginning, packing, etc. Means and methods of adulteration. 

4. — Commercial handling of the raw material up to the 
spinning mill. 

5. — The nature and properties of the various kinds of 
raw material : — Sea Islands, Queensland, Fiji, Egyptian, 
New Orleans, Uplands, Boweds, Dhollerah, Hingunghaut, 
Surat, Brazilian, etc. 

6. — The selection and advisability, or otherwise, of mix- 
ing various cottons, with a view to the full utilization of 
every kind. 

7. — The development of and the principles involved in 
the construction of the several machines used in cotton 
spinning. 

66 



8. — Cleaning" cotton by opening, scutching, carding, and 
combing machines. 

9. — Process of attaining a parallel arrangement of fibres 
by carding, and the attenuation of the sliver, through draw- 
ing, slubbing, intermediate, and finishing roving frames. 

10. — Spinning operations upon the throstle, mule, and 
ring frame. 

1 1 . — The doubling of single yarns for lace, hosiery, sew- 
ing thread, and kindred purposes. 

12. — Warping" and bundling for home trade and export, 
with the accompanying process of winding and reeling. 

13. — Packing and commercial dealing with yarns in pro- 
cess of distribution. 



In the Honors examination more difificult questions in 
the above subjects will be set than in the Ordinary Grade. 



67 



VARIETIES OF COTTON AND THEIR 
CHARACTERISTICS. 

Cottons thaf are of commercial importance may be di- 
vided into five (5) classes or varieties, viz.: — 

Sea Island, Egyptian, Brazilian, American, Indian. 

There are several other varieties of minor importance, 
such as West Indian, African, etc. Asiatic cotton, while 
grown to some extent, is almost wholly consumed by the 
cotton mills of Russia. 

Sea Island Cotton is the finest cotton grown, having 
long, finely diametered, soft, sericeous fibres. It is gen- 
erally used for yarns from 120's and upwards, except in the 
spool cotton trade, where its use is general for numbers as 
low as 70's. The lower grades are also used extensively to 
mix in with Egyptian cottons. 

Egyptian Cotton ranks next to Sea Island in value. 
It is strong, tenacious, and generally silky. There are 
several grades grown. The Gallini variety was grown from 
Sea Island seed, but is now almost extinct. Brown Egyp- 
tian cotton is strong and pliable, while the White Egyptian 
variety possesses about the same general characteristics but 
is slightly harsher. These cottons will mix well with the 
finer grades of American cotton, such as " Peeler" and 
"Allen seed." The Gallini variety was spun into numbers 
as fine as 150's, Brown Egyptian being used for yarns up 
to 130's, while the White Egyptian is seldom used for num- 
bers finer than 70's. This class of cotton contains a greater 
percentage of short fibre than any other variety. 

Brazilian Cotton. — There are a number of varieties of 
cotton which the term "Brazilian" covers; some are harsh 
and wiry, while others are of a softer nature, possessing 
many of the general characteristics of the American cottons. 
The particular varieties are: — "Santos" cotton, which is 
grown from American seed ( Gossypium Hirsutum) and 

68 



partakes more of the nature of American cotton than any 
other BraziHan variety. 

The Rough Peruvian variety is of a good appearance and 
is largely used to mix with wool for the production of certain 
classes of woolen goods. It is extremely well adapted for 
this purpose. In the cotton trade it is also used most gen- 
erally in the production of warp yarns. 

Smooth Peruvian is of about the same staple, appearance 
and regularity as the Rough variety, but is much softer and 
more pliable. By many manufacturers it is largely used to 
mix with American cottons when an extra good grade of 
yarns is required. 

Used alone Rough and Smooth Peruvians will spin up to 
70's. The "Santos" and other varieties of the cottons of 
Brazil are seldom used for numbers finer than 6o's. 

American Cotton. — This is the staple cotton of the 
world. There are necessarily a large number of varieties, 
owing to the wide extent of territory and the different 
climatic conditions imder which it is grown, New Orleans, 
Texas, Mobile and Uplands being important types. The 
better grades of the Orleans and Texas are frequently spun 
into numbers as high as 50's. Mobile does not usually give 
very satisfactory results for yarns over 40's, while " Uplands" 
may be spun from 50's downward, according to the grade. 
This class of cotton (American) possesses many valuable 
characteristics. Its affinity for dye-stuffs, its clean, clear 
color, silky nature, and general character being the most 
prominent. 

Its strength and value is, however, very frequently 
reduced by careless handling in the gin; the saw-gin being 
a machine that must be intelligently operated and never 
crowded. It is frequently found that when cotton is allowed 
to air for a considerable period and becomes thoroughly 
dried before being ginned, its value per poimd to the spinner 
is materiall)- increased. 



69 



Indian Cotton. — This is the lowest grade of commercial 
cottons. It has the shortest fibre with the largest diameter, 
and while the strength of the individual fibres is greater 
than that of any other cotton ; on account of their large diam- 
eter and short length, it is only suitable for low numbers. 
It is also very dirty, and the lower grades, such as "()om- 
rawuttee," are not used alone except for the very lowest 
numbers. The higher grades of this variety, such as 
" Hinghunghat," may be spun into 30's. This class is also 
suitable for mixing with American cottons, when somewhat 
higher numbers can be spun. 

Other Varieties. — There are several other varieties that 
are only grown to a very limited extent, such as African 
cotton, Smyrna cotton. West Indian cotton, etc. Most of 
these are fairly clean, but quite irregular. The numbers 
into which they are mostly spun will range from about 30's 
to 50's. 

HEAT AND MOISTURH IN RELATION TO THE CO I TON 

FIBRE. 

The cotton fibre is most complex and peculiar in its 
mechanical structure and chemical composition. A brief 
description of the general formation of the fibre has alread)' 
been oriven, and it now remains to determine to what extent 
this structure influences its "spinning" properties, under 
different atniospheric conditions as to heat and moisture. 
If the temperature of any room in which the material is 
being manipulated is allowed to become too low and the air 
dry, these conditions cause the fibre to become harsh, dry 
and brittle, from the fact that the waxy covering of each 
fibre congeals and therefore offers a materially increased 
resistance to the various processes of twisting and drawing 
to which it is being subjected. There is also an appreciable 
amount of electricity generated by the fibres themselves in 
the drawing processes, when they are in the condition 



described, and this tog-ether with the increased electricit^' 
developed by the sHpping friction of the belts, etc., causes 
an abnormal increase in the amount of waste made, decreases 
the production, and yarns produced under such an atmos- 
pheric and hygrometical condition are oozy, wca'k, uneven, 
and have a large percentage of protruding fibres, which are 
rubbed off in the succeeding processes, and the general 
quality is very much reduced. 

These considerations have led to the adoption of many 
methods to minimize these evils, beginning- with the old- 
fashioned watering can. This method, while troublesome 
and exceedingly crude, was a natural one, since to whatever 
degree the relative humidity of the room might have been 
increased, it was arrived at by nature's own method of 
natural evaporation. Subsequently the practice of blowing 
live steam into the room came into very general use, this 
being followed by the different modifications of the "spray" 
type of humidifyers. And these, while a decided improve- 
ment on the previous methods, are imscientific and faulty 
in principle. As is well known, rain while it washes the air, 
adds but little to the amount of moisture held in suspension. 
The only method by which uniform and altogether satisfac- 
tory results can be obtained is one whose fundamental 
principle is natural evaporatio?i, the introduction of finely 
divided water into a room being, at the best, but a makeshift 
method. 

The production, strength and general quality of the goods 
produced will be increased to a remarkable extent by the 
installation of a humidifying apparatus, built on correct 
principles, if intelligent attention be given to its operation, 
for the reason, that each fibre will be brought into the most 
suitable condition for proper manipulation, and free elec- 
tricity is virtually eliminated. 

Textile fibres once charged with electricity are most diffi- 
cult to discharge, they being charged with electricity of the 
same kind producing the mutual repulsion, so evident in any 

71 



mill on a dry day, where no means of producing artificial 
humidity are at hand. It is an absolute impossibilty to pro- 
duce good yarns under such conditions. 

A few words may now be said on the subject of the 
"conditioning of yarns." This is a matter, the importance 
of which is but little understood by the majority of manufac- 
turers, but as competition increases and margins become 
narrower it will be taken up and carefully studied, in order 
to first discover its absolutely beneficial effects upon the 
yarn, and then the easiest and best method of getting the 
requisite percentage of conditioning will be carefully con- 
sidered. A careful test of the breaking strength of yarns 
taken direct from the spindle and compared with a similar 
test after these yarns have been allowed to regain that 
amount of the "water hydration" they have evaporated dur- 
ing their treatment in the mill, will, on the average, show a 
difference of lo per cent, in favor of the latter test. 

The curl or liability to kink would be effectually and per- 
manently taken out, the yarn would weave better and knit 
better and with less breakage and less waste, and its flexi- 
bility would be materially increased. 

Less fluff or fly, and loss of yarn in the knitting or spool- 
ing process, and the fabric produced, whether knitted or 
woven, would be brighter in appearance, and also have a 
much better "feel" or "cover." 

The old-fashioned steam chest, for steaming the filling, to 
lay the twist, and obviate the trouble caused by yarn curl- 
ing in the weaving, is used to-day to a very considerable 
extent, with all its glaring disadvantages, the most promi- 
nent of these being soft and weak yarn, stained cops or 
bobbins, unequal treatment, the outer layers being damp- 
ened to the point of saturation, while the center layers are 
but slightly affected, if at all; further, if the yarn is placed 
in boxes the cops or bobbins composing the upper layers 
will be treated abnormally, while those toward the center 
and bottom of the box will be found to be almost as dry as 

72 



they were before being subjected to treatment. 

The boxes or baskets in which the yarn is placed in the 
steam chamber are quickly rendered useless, and are a 
serious item of expense. 

The injurious effect of steaming yarns is especially notice- 
able when they have been spun from Egyptian cotton, the 
brown coloring matter or " endochrome" of the fibres is 
almost always so acted upon as to produce a series of dis- 
tinct streaks of color, from this effect and others, it is quite 
evident that steaming does very seriously affect the strength 
of the threads for the reason that it most certainly softens, 
and to a certain extent dissolves and damages the filaments. 

Whenever a method is brought out whereby every particle 
of yarn can be permeated, without the aid of steam, sprink- 
ling with water, chemicals, or other deleterious substances, 
and this uniform permeation accomplished quickly, so as to 
avoid the carrying of a very large stock of yarn, and the 
purchase of a very large number of boxes or baskets, its use 
will become general. 



73 



GLOSSARY. 



Brokerage. — Commission. 

Doubling. — Twisting. 

Do U bier. — Twister. 

Droppings. — The heavier impurities thrown out by the 
pickers. 

Dollerah. j 

Dharwar. —Grades of East Indian cotton. 

Hingunghat.) 

Licking. — SpHtting of laps during unrohing. 

Motes. — Particles of broken cotton seed with short fibres 
attached. j 

Oomerawutte. — A type of East Indian cotton. 

Opener. — First picking machine. 

Pinion. — Change gear. 

Printers. — Print cloths. 

Rollers.— Rolls. 

74 



Roller Card. — A carding engine formerly much favored 
in the Lancashire mills. 

Scutcher. — The name by which a picking or lap machine 
is known in England. 

Spindle and Fly Frannes. — Speeders or roving frames. 

Strap.— Belt. 

Sun-Wheel. — The "plate" or largest wheel in the "differ- 
ential," or as it is sometimes termed, the " sun and 
planet motion" in speeders. 

Surats. — Another name for low grade East Indian cottons. 

Twist. — A Lancashire term for warp yarn, sometimes ab- 
breviated T, as 6o's T, for 6o's warp yarn. 

Weft. — Filling, abbrv. W, as 32's W. 

Wheels. — A factory term sometimes applied to a pair of 
cotton mules. 

Wheel. — Gear. 



75 




THE BEST SPINNING CAN ONLY BE OBTAINED 
BY USING THE BEST PICKERS 



BUILT BY 



The A. T. Atherton 
Machine Company, 



PAWTUCKET, R. I. 



MANUFACTURERS OF 



Cotton /Ibacbincr^, 



\A'>:-ij- T*'" 




C. A. M. PRARAY. • WM. WHITTAM, Jr. 

C. A. M. Praray & Co. 




THOS. M. HOLT MILL. NEW. 



ILL ArGHITEGTS and ENGINEERS. 

PLANS AND SPECIFICATIONS FURNISHED FOR THE 
CONSTRUCTION AND EQUIPMENT 



Gotton. woolen worsted and m MHis, 

BLEACHING and DYEING WORKS, 

Water and Electrical Powers. 



TOO A O A\/ '^PROVED CONSTRUCTION 
HE rnAnAY for textile mills 

CAN BE APPLIED TO ANTIQUATED BUILDINGS, QO Dr\ P 4- 
INCREASING THE LIGHT ^*^ rul L>6ni . 

^^ The illustration shown above gives a view of the Thos. M. Holt Mill, constructed on 
two systems: at the right of the central tower, the "PRARAY" Constrnction is shown, 
Avhile on the left, a view of the old method. 



Made by us meets all requirements 

of the Mutual Insurance Companies. 

SOUTHERN AGENTS FOR TEXTILE MACHINERY. 

CORRESPONDENCE SOLICITED. 

MAIN OFFICE, PrOVIDENCE, R. 1. BANIGAN BUILDING, 

BRANCH, ----- CHARLOTTE, N. C. 



GREAT ADVANTAGES RESULT 



-FROM- 



TIiB DD rjD fj Y improvBfl System 



of Construction. 



PATENTED APRIL 17, 1894. 



Floors are Supported Independent 
of Walls. 

Less Massive Brick Work required. 

Lighter and Stronger in Construc- 
tion, at a Less Cost of Erection. 

A Less Fire Risk, consequently a Reduced 
Insurance. 

THIRTY -THREE PER CENT, more light than can be 

obtained by any other system of construction. 
33 PER CENT, less bricks in the walls. 
JO PER CENT, less height of wall required. 
JO PER CENT, less space to heat. 

MEETS ALL POINTS REQUIRED by the Mutual 
Insurance Companies. 

IS A SLOW BURNING CONSTRUCTION. 

PRESENT EXAMPLES ERECTED ON THIS SYSTEM: 

THE DIXIE COTTON MILLS, La Grange, Ga. 

Cost less per spindle for building than any mill built in the South. 

SELMA COTTON MILLS Selma, Ala. 

AFRO COTTON MILLS, Annistou, Ga. 

GEORGIA WESTERN COTTON MILL, . . Douglasville, Ga. 
THE THOMAS M. HOLT, ] Thomas M. Holt Mfg. Co., 
] 





r i 

I ! 



THE 



CORA 



Haw River, N 




■t<^-%t.«s'«<>Si,-»«*^*«*t«i^'SwS,s«\V ■ "' 



\u^«^t %w^(.VtttN^£«a 



%W^..uIkt'}>U^,<^.h«vU«. 



PLANS OF WALLS. ETC. 

Patented hy C. A. M. Praray, April 17, 1894. 
II 




*e. 



CORA COTTON MILL. 

WE PRINT below letters from Messrs, B. S. Robertson, Treas- 
urer of the Thomas M. Holt Mfg. Co., and of Samuel Hale, 
Vice-President of the Dixie, and General Manager of the 
Georgia Western Cotton Mills : 

THE THOS. M. HOLT MANUFACTURING CO. 

Haw River, N. C, April 4, 1898. 
Messrs. Chas. A. M. Prarat & Co., Providence, R. I. 

(ientlemen : — Yours of the 2nd to hand. We should say that the lamps are lighted in the old part 
of our mill 3 or 4 times as long during the day in the old part as they are in the new part. Of course, having weaving in 
the old part, and carding and spinning in the new part accounts for some of this, but even allowing for this, there is still 
a great difference in the matter of light in the new construction. We only wish we had the same construction in the 
part that contains the looms, since the light would be injin.itely better. 

We are tixing to put some looms in the Cora Mill this Summer, and we think the weave room there will be 
eminently satisfactory. Yours trulj', 

(Signed) B. S. ROBERTSON, Treasurer. 



Office op the GEORGIA WESTERN COTTON MILLS. 

DODGLASVILLE, Ga., April Kt, 189S. 
Messrs. Chas. A. M. Prarat & Co., Providence, R. I. 

Gentlemen : — Your favor of the 161h duly received. In reply I beg to say that I have built two 
Cotton Mills in the South, using your "PR AHA Y" Patent Construction. 

The Dixie Mills at La Grange, Ga., and the Georgia Western Cotton Jfills of Doitglasville, Ga. now under 
construction, and nearlj' completed, and I am pleased to say that I am more than pleased with the plans and construc- 
tion, and prefer them to any that I have seen for this class of "buildings. 

The Mills can be built cheaper with these jilans, than with tlie ordinary mill construction, and are lighter and much 
better adapteiJ for the business in every way, being especially fitted to the Southern Climate. 

It will give me great pleasure to give any of your friends or clients any further details, if they will come to me at 
Douglasville, Ga., or write. Very truly yours, 

(Signed) "SAMUEL HALE, General Manager Georgia Western Cotton Mills. 



WE NAME YOU A FEW MILLS located in the Northern and Southern States 
of zvhich Mr. Praray was the Architect and Constructing Engineer : 

THE NORTHERN MILLS ARE: 

The N. H. Slater, Webster, Mass.; Whitman Mills, New Bedford; The Corr Mills, Taunton, Mass.; 
Two additions to the Whittin Bros., Mill at Whittensville, Northbridge, Mass. ; The River Spinning 
Mills, Woonsocket, R. I.; The Vesta Knitting Mills, Providence, R. I.; The Kenyon Mills, at 
Shannock, R. I. 

THE SOUTHERN MILLS ARE: 

Two Mills for the Clifton Mfg. Co., Clifton, S. C. ; Two Mills for the Anderson Cotton Mills, Anderson, 
S. C; The Piedmont Mills, Piedmont, S. C; The Pelham Mills, Pelham, S. C; The Eronee Mills 
Eronee, 8. C, ; The Raleigh Mills, Raleigh, N. C; Tallasee Fall Mills, Tallasee Falls, Ala.; Aiken Mills, 
Bath, S. C; Stonewall Mills, Stonewall, Miss.; The South Side Mills, Salem, S. C; Caraleigh Mills, 
Raleigh, N. C, and man}' other smaller mills. 



WATER POWERS 



TWO FOR THE CLIFTON MILLS, CLIFTON, S. C. 

ONE FOR THE TALLASSEE FALLS MFG. CO., TALLASSEE, GA. 
ONE FOR THE PELHAM MILLS, PELHAM, S. C. 

ONE FOR THE FRIES ELECTRIC AND POWER CO., SALEM, N. C. 

TWO FOR THE CANADIEN COLORED COTTON M I LL CO., CANADA. 
Ill 



RUFUS B. GOFF, President; HARRY C. CHENEY, Secretary; 

HENRY C. CLARK, Treasurer; 
HARRY M. SMITH, Vice-President. FRED E. SPALDING. 



^tandard JV^Hl 3^PP'2 Q-- 



MANUFACTURERS AND 
DEALERS IN 



Roll Coders' Stock and Tools, 

Belt Hooks and Ring Travellers, 

Wire Goods, Heddles and Frames, 



^GENERAL MILL FURNISHINGS:^ 



LEATHER, RAW HIDE, COTTON AND RUBBER BELTING, 

LACE, PICKER, WORSTED AND BELT LEATHER. 



Office and Salesroom ; 

7 7 Exchange Place, : : : Providence, R. I, 



IV 



Dinsmore Manylaoiurino 60. 

CHAS. F. CURIVEN, Treasurer. 

SALEM, MASS. 



■MANUFACTURERS OF- 



MILL SEWING MACHINES. 




Railway and Circular Patterns, 

FOR BELT, FOOT AND HAND POWER. 
THIRTEEN DIFFERENT STYLES. 

Adapted for use of Bleacheries, 

Dye Works, Cotton, Woolen and Silk Mills. 

OVER 2,500 IN USE. 



SEND FOR ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 

V 



CHARLES B. MAGUIRE. EDWIN G. PENNIMAN. 



ii/a^uire dc zPennimany 



BUILDERS^ 



MILL WORK AND OTHER HEAVY 
CONSTRUCTION A SPECIALTY . . . 



PRELIMINARY OR FINAL 

ESTIMATES FURNISHED PROMPTLY. 



48 Custom jrfouse Street^ 

Tjelephone J097» 



Salem Foundry ana 
HlacninB Stiop 

CHAS. F. CURWEN, Proprietor. 



S7XL-E7VY, TV^KSS. 



7UYKN\^I=750TURERS OF= 



ELEVHTORS. 




Patent Automatic Hatch Covers. 



Patent Self-Closino- Gates. 



More than 200 of our Elevators Used in Textile Mills. 

SEND FOR ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 



FALES & JENKS MACHINE CO. 

PAWTUCKET, R. L 



BUILDERS OF 



COTTON^ 

SPINNING 



AND^^^^ Machinery. 

TWISTING ill 



VIII 



Geo. V. Cresson Co., 

POWER TRANSMITTING 

MACHINERY. 



18th ST. and ALLEGHENY AVE., 

PHILADELPHIA, PA. 
PATENT ^ ~ --- 



^ 



IMPROVED 
BALL and 
SOCKET 

PARTING 
HANGER, 
RING 



( 




OILING 



BABBITTED 

Philadelphia 
Pattern. 




141 LIBERTY STREET, 
NEW YORK. 

VERTICAL 
-^ AND 

HORIZONTAL 

ADJUSTMENT, 

BEARINGS 

Fitted with 

SCRAPERS 

to PREVENT 

ESCAPE 

OF OIL. 



TURNED OPEN HEARTH STEEL SHAFTING, 

PULLEYS, COUPLINGS, 



FRICTION CLUTCHES-CRUSHING ROLLS. 



ii 



m UNIVERSAL" 

TI16 Only rerleGi Sysieiii ot Windlno Yarn. 



EllSf 10 OP[MI 




Wmm\ Winding Gompdnu. 

226 Devonshire Street, 

BOSTON, MASS. 



EVAN ARTHUR LEIGH, 

SUCCESSOR TO 

E. A. LEIGH & CO., 

MASON BUILDING, 70 KILBY STREET, BOSTON, MASS, 

IMPORTER OF 

COTTON, WOOLEN and WORSTED 

*/lbacbiner^* 

• • • 

••• ••• ••• 

THE LATEST AND* BEST.=_I^ 



Patent Bale Breakers or Cotton Pullers. 
Patent Automatic Hopper Feeders. 
Patent Exhaust Cotton Openers and Lappers. 
Revolving Top Flat Carding Engines. 
Combing Machines for all classes of Cotton. 
Drawing, Slubbing, Intermediate and Roving Frames. 
Self -Acting Mules for Cotton, Wool or Worsted. 
Rollers, Spindles, and Flyers of all descriptions. 
Wool Combing Machinery. 



Wool Washing and Drying Machines. 

Garnett Machines, — Card Clothing of all descriptions. 

Napping and Measuring Machines. 

Fine Yarns, Cotton and Worsted. 



Dronsfield's Grinders and Emery Fillet kept in stock. 

PLATT BROS. & CO.'S 

SPECIAL MACHINERY 

FOR MAKING ENGLISH AND FRENCH WORSTED YARNS. 
THE BEST MACHINERY FOR MAKING COTTON WASTE INTO YARNS. 



MATHER & PLATT'S Bleaching, Dyeing and Finisliing Machinery. 



eAHALL BOILER 




fit ' 



ALWAYS 

SUPERHEATED 

DRY STEAM. 



MUD AND SCALE 

COLLECT 

N LOWER DRUM 

OUT OF 

REACH OFTHE FIRE. 



GflHALL BOILER 

Vertical Tabes mean Clean Tubes and Eronomii^ speciallij Valuable where irater is bad. 
Has CaJiall Patent Sfrinr/inr/ Manhole Plates. 
R3' A Postal Card will bring us. An interesting practical Circular is ready for you. 

THACJE-R ^ CO., Inc. 



Drexel Building, 
Philadelphia. 



Tremont Building, Taylor Building. 

Boston. 39 Courtland St., New York 



XII 



INCORPORATED JUNE 4, 1890. 



American Card Clothing Co. 

GENERAL OFFICES: WORCESTER, MASS. 



SEND ORDERS TO FACTORIES : 

Worcester, Leicester, North Andover, Lowell, Walpole, Mass., 
Philadelphia, Pa., Providence, R. L, Manchester, N. H. 



Manufacturers of EVERY DESCRIPTION OF 

Card Cl-Othing. 

FOR WOOL AND COTTON CARDS. 

EXCLUSIVE AMERICAN LICENSEES FOR THE 

PATENT FLEXIFORT CARD CLOTHS. 



Special attention given to Clothing for Revolving Top Cards. Experts 
furnished to Clothe and Start the same. 



XIII 



The Lincoln Company, 

MAKERS OF IMPROVED MACHINERY FOR 

BLEACHING, =^-=^ 

DYEING, . . . Finishing Textile Fabrics 

DRYING and ^ 



SOLE MAKERS OF 



RUSDEN'S Patent 

Aniline Ageing Macinines, Open Soaping Machines, 
Roller Washing Machines, Squeezing Machines, 
Vacuum Color Strainers, Blanket Washing Machines. 



IMPROVED, AUTOMATIC, HIGH-SPEED, SELF-FEEDING, 

TENTERING MACHINES, 

WITH AND WITHOUT SWINGING MOTION. 



CONTINUOUS, CHAINLESS, 

STEAMING MACHINES. 



Bentz- Edmeston 

Continuous Bleaching Kiers and Process, 



PATENTED. 

XIV 



Complete Bleaching Plants, 



KIERS WITH PATENT INJECTORS OR PUFFER PIPES, 
WASHING, LIMING, CHEMIC AND SOURING MACHINES, 
SQUEEZERS, CHEMIC AGITATORS, CAUSTIC SODA TANKS, ETC. 



Complete Aniline-Black Plants, 

PADDING, DRYING AND AGEING MACHINES. 
CROMING, SOAPING AND WASHING MACHINES. 

Complete Indigo Dyeing Plants, 

CONTINUOUS INDIGO SKYING MACHINES, 

CUTTING MACHINES, OPEN AND ROPE WASHING MACHINES, 

DIPPING TANKS, IMPROVED INDIGO MILLS. 

Bleaching and Dyeing Plants, 

FOR WARPS, YARN AND SPOOL THREAD 

Drying Machines, with Copper and Tinned iron Cylinders. 

IRON, BRASS, COPPER AND RUBBER COVERED ROLLS. 

DYEING MACHINES, JIGGERS, CANROYS, 

CHEMIC, WATER, STARCH. AND BACK FILLING MANGLES, 

DAMPING MACHINES, BELT STRETCHERS, CALENDERS, 

STEAMING COTTAGES, PUMPS, DIAGONAL ENGINES, 

REVOLVING SPREADERS, 

CONICAL OPENING ROLLS, IMPROVED EXPANSION PULLEYS 

FRICTION CLUTCHES. 



COMPLETE PLANS AND ESTIMATES FOR 

BLEACHING, DYEING, PRINTING AND FINISHING WORKS. 



OFFICE AND WORKS: 
54 to 70 Arch Street, HartfOfd, Conn. 



XV 



E.VENTILATING & HEATING GO, 




RICHARDSON'S 
REVOLVING VENTILATOR 



RICHARDSON'S EXHAUST FANS 

For removing steam from Dye Houses and 

Slashers ; also for drying Cotton, Wool, Cloth, 

Yarn, etc., and for ventilating over-heated 

work rooms. 



MANUFACTURERS OF 



RICHARDSON'S BLOWER SYSTEM FOR MILL VENTiLATION. 

Supplies Pure Air. Mal<es any desirable Humidity. 

Lowers tine Temperature. Increases Production. 
Gives Healtli and Energy to Employes. Can be adapted to any Mill. 



RICHARDSON'S SHEET MFTAT, 




For conveying Wool, Cotton, Rags, 
Shavings, Dust, etc. 



Office and Works, . . . 926, 928 dt 930 Manton Avenue. 



COTTON 

Feeders, Openers, tappers, Waste Cleaners, 
Automatic Cleaning Trunks, Thread Extractors. 

WOOL 

Picker Feeders, Church's Patent Wool Washers, 
Automatic Dryers and Carbonizing Machines. 

SHODDY 

Pickers of Butterworth, Kitson and English 
Patterns, Rag Dusters. 



KITSON MACHINE CO, 

BUILDERS OF 

REPAIRING MACHINERY FOR 

COTTON, WOOL AND SHODDY, 

LOWELL, MASS. 



STUART W. CRAMER, 

Southern Agent. Charlotte. N. C. 



XVII 








. R. NOONE 3 G0> 



Successors to NOONE BROTHERS, 



100 Pearl Street, Boston, 



MANUFACTURERS OF 



Roller Cloths, Jacket Cloths, 

Slasher Cloths, Clearer Cloths, 

Filterino: Cloths, Piano Cloths, 

Printers' Blanket, Webbing, etc., etc. 



MILLS: 



MT. BATTY MFG. CO. MEGUNTICOOK WOOLEN CO. CAMDEN WOOLEN CO 





^^ CHWhall & Co 

SELLING AGENTS, 



o/ 



MANUFACTURERS OF 



FIBRE 
ROVING CANS 

AND BOXES 




For Cotton and 

Woolen Mills, 

Cordage Works, 
8iC. 



We would call particular atteutiou to our 

PATENT KICKING BAND, which is practically SEAMLESS, 



increasing the streuiith and general' appearance of the can. 



THE WHITIN MACHINE WORKS, 

WHITINSVILLE, MASS. 

S. W. CRAMER, 
No. 38 So. Tryon Street, Charlotte, N. C, Southern Agent. 

Builders of 

COTTON MACHINERY. 

Cards, Railway Heads, Drawing Frames, 

Spinning Frames, Spoolers, Wet and Dry Twisters, 

Long Chain Quilling Machines, 

Reels, Looms. 



XX 



The MeiaiiiG Drawing Roll 60. 



INDIHN ORCHHRD, MHSS. 



SOLE MANUFACTURERS OF 



lp>atent /Ibctallic 
2)rawinQ IRoUs 

IN UNITED STATES AND CANADA. 

Used on all processes in carding room up to and 
including slubbers. 

We guarantee 25 per cent, more production than can be obtained 

from the leather covered rolls, that is, rolls being same 

diameter and running same speed. 

ALL WORK GUARANTEED. 



For prices and particulars write to 

THE METALLIC DRAWING ROLL GO. 

INDIAN ORCHARD, MASS. 



XXI 



HERCULENE.I> 

A COLD-WATER PAINT, 

For Inside Work on any Surface. 

Will not Fade, Rub or Flake. Particularly adapted for 

Whitening Walls and Ceilings in 

Factories, Warehouses. Public Buildings, Etc., 

and is also used as a Kalsomine for the finest kind 

of Decorative Work. 

Ready for immediate Use by Mixing with Cold Water. 

Is Fire Proof, Durable and Cheap. 

I would uame a few of my Customers who have placed duplicate orders : 

Amoskeag Mfg. Co., Manchester, N. H., four orders. 

Chicopee Mfg. Co., Chicopee Falls, Mass., five orders. 

Lonsdale Co., Lonsdale, R. I., three orders. 

Social Mills Co., Woonsocket, R. I., four orders. 

Union Wadding Co., Pawtucket, R. I., two orders. 

Crompton Co., Cromptou, R. 1., four orders. 

Valley Falls Co., Albion, R. I., four orders. 

Florence Mfg. Co., Florence, Mass., six orders. 

Slater Woolen Co., Webster, Mass., seven orders. 

Farr Alpaca Co., Holyoke, Mass., three orders. 

Fall River Iron Works, Fall River, Mass., five orders. 

Richard Borden Mfg. Co., Fall River, Mass., three orders. 

Falls Co., Norwich, Conn., four orders. 

Shetucket Co., Norwich, Conn., two orders. 

Scoville Mfg. Co., Waterbury, Conn., three orders. 

PoNEMAH Mills, Taftville, Conn., two orders. 

Goodyear Rubber Co., Middletown, Conn., five orders. 



WRITE FOR FURTHER PARTICULARS TO 

WM. D. WARNER, Sole Proprietor, 

50 EXCHANGE PLACE, 

PROVIDENCE, R. I. 



XXI I 



PHTENT IMPROVEMENTS 



MAKE OUR 



Fly Frames The Best, 



WE INCREASE PRODUCTION 



AT DECREASE COST. 



HAVE YOU SEEN 



"THE WOONSOCKET" 



Cloth Trimmer and Inspecting Machine? 



Woonsocket Machine and Press Co., 

WOO/N SOCKET, "R. I., 
a. S. A. 



Wi'iie/or Latest Improvement Sheet. . . , 

XXIII 



The Victor Turbine is the Best ! 




WE ARE THE 



LARGEST MANUFACTURERS 



IN THE WORLD 



OF AVATER WHEELS, 

And our Specialty^ in that line is 

THE IMPROVED 
VICTOR TURBINE. 

Which we make ia such great variety of Sizes and Styles 

that we are prepared to meet the requirements of 

almost any situation. We undertake 

Contracts for Complete 
later Power Plants. 



WE ARE ALSO LARGE MANUFACTURERS OF 



STEAM and POWER 
PUMPING MACHINERY 

of the Latest and most Improved Designs, 
and adapted for all purposes. 

Correspondence is solicited. 




TRIPLEX PUMP. 



Tie Stilwell-Bierce & Smith-Valle Co, 



DAYTON, OHIO. 



Brtbur B, Bdgbam, 

SOLE AGENT, 

186 £)epon6hire St, Boston, /Iftass. 

U. S. A. 



' Specialties in XLeytile fll^acbiner^: 

Broadbent & Briglianvs Cone Winders, for Hosiery Yarns, 

Broadbent & Brigham's Parallel Winders, for Yarns and Threads. 

Patent Octopus Bronze Mandrels. 

Morse Winders, close, open or diamond wind, any Traverse from 1 to 10 inches. 

Shuttle Bobbin Winders, etc., etc. 

Gassing Machines for Cotton, Worsted and Silk, with Patent Quick Traverse 
Motion. 

Indicators for Mules, Frames, etc. 

Octopus Gloy for Light and Heavy Sizing. 

Kenyon's Patent Interstranded Ropes for Power Transmission, etc. 

CORRESPONDENCE SOLICITED. 



XXV 



THE SPENCER DflinPER REGULflTOR. 



N EVEN PRESSURE OF STEAM 
IS CONSIDERED BY SOME 
AS MORE IMPORTANT THAN 
A SAVING OF FUEL. 

THE SPENCER DOES BOTH. 



ABOUT 

3500 

IN USE. 




Record of steain pressure April G, 1894, at the Naumkeag Cotton Mills, Salem, Mass. They have three SPENCER 
DAMPER REGULATORS, and no other. Also in nse by 

. Newark, N. J. Pepperell Mfg. Co., (3) . . . Biddeford, Me. 

Gloucester, N. J. Stark Mills Manchester, N. H. 

Baltimore, Md. Mass. Cotton Mills, (3) . . . Lowell, Mass. 

Burlington, N. C. Crefeld Mills, Pawtucket, R. L 

Chattahoochee, Ga. Willimantic Linen Co., ('2) . Willimantic, Conn. 



Clark Thread Co., (5) 
Gloucester Mfg. C, 
Woodbury Mfg. Co.. 
^Vurora Cotton Mills, 
Whittier Mills, . 



Send for New Catalogue and Prices. 



G. G. StILLMAN, . . Manufacturers' Agent, 
199 Pearl Street, Boston, Mass. 



FREDERICK GRINNELL, 
President. 



FRANK B. COMINS, 
Vice-President and Gen l Manager. 



F. W. HARTWELL, 
Treasurer. 



TUB UnltBil states 
fleropnor fllr-Hloistemng and Ventilating 

Company, 

PROiZIDENCE, R. I. 
Making a Specialty of Humidification. 



We are prepared to advise as to the best 
iutroductiou of a Iluniidifying' System. 



THE AMERICAN "VORTEX" HUMIDIFIER. 




THE ONLY PERFECT SYSTEM 

For Moistening the Air, and maintaining a i)roper "condition" in tlie various 
departments of textile manufacture. It moistens, waslies, cools or warms the 
atmosphere of a room. It has no moving parts, and is rapid in action. The 
"VORTEX" distributes a tiner spra}^ and is of greater capacity than any otiier 
moistener. Our Sillg'le jVozzle gives better results than any other form of 
Nozzle in the market. Can be applied to present systems having a feed and 
return pipe. 

CORRESPONDENCE SOLICITED. 

XXVII 



SACO AND PETTEE MACHINE SHOPS. 

Main Office: Newton Upper Falls^ Mass*^ 

( u. s. M. ) 

COTTON niflCJlINERY 



OF THE 



LATEST IMPROVED PATTERN 




REVOLVING FLAT CARDS. SLUBBING. 

RAILWAY HEADS, INTERMEDIATE and 
DRAWING FRAMES, ROVING FRAMES, 
SPINNING FRAMES. 



WORKS 



BIDDEFORD, ME. 

NEWTON UPPER FALLS, MASS. 

SEND FOR ESTIMATES AND PRICES. 



XXVill 



CHAS. A. SCHIEREN. 



F. A. M. BURRELL. 



CHAS. A. SCHIEREN, JR. 



GHAS. A. SCHIEREN & CO., 



MANUFACTURERS AND TANNERS OF 




DIXIE TANNERY, BRISTOL, TENN. 



OAK LEATHER BELTING 

AND LACE LEATHER. 



NEW YORK : 45, 47, 49 AND 51 FERRY STREET. 
CHICAGO : 46 AND 48 SO. CANAL STREET. 



PHILADELPHIA : 226 N. 3RD STREET. 
BOSTON: 119 HIGH STREET. 



XXIX 



MASON MACHINE WORKS, 

THUNTON, MHSS. 

BUILDERS OF 

COTTON MILL Mmwm 










REiZOLyiNG FLHT CHRDS, 

RHILiflZHY HEHDS, DRHiflZING FRHMES, 

COMBERS, SPINNING FRHMES, 

MULES HND LOOMS. 

HLsoTHE.. MHSON-NORTHROP LOOM. 



TI16 L0W6II Rino Frame. 




All parts are made on special tools to standard sizes and are 
interchangeable. 

The greatest care is taken to have the frames constructed so 
as to obtain the greatest production with the highest speed. 

All spindles are run in their bearings before being sent out. 

Fluted Rolls are ground to accuracy as to their roundness and 
diameter, a very important characteristic for high speed. 

We supply the best Separator in the market and provide all 
our frames with traveller clearers, lifting thread board device, cut 
gearing, improved roving traverse motion, heavy tin drums that 
don't break down, and all other parts that go with a first-class 
machine. 



Lowell Machine Shop, 



LOWELL, MASS, 



OAK LEATHER BELTING, 



ESPECIALLY MADE FOR 



Cotton and Woolen Mills and Power Plants of Every Description. 

IN ALL WIDTHS, PLIES AND WEIGHTS. 



TANNED AND MANUFACTURED BY 

Graton & Knight Manufg Co 




i-*j. 



Main Office and Factory, - - Worcester, Mass. 

TANNERY CAPACITY. OVER 100.000 HIDES ANNUALLY. 



BRANCHES 



ATLANTA; CHICAGO; NEW YORK; PHILADELPHIA; PORTLAND. Or. 



TO THE TRADE : 



Our long experieuce iu the Belting Business, being established in 1851, 

under tlie firm name of Graton & Knight ; our ample capital iu our present 

incorporation ($700,000) ; the success we have had in the installment of 

Belting P^quipment in all sections of the country and abroad, — are facts we 

present for your favorable consideration. 

Send for our estimates xipon your specifications for Oak Leather Belting, 

Strappintj, etc. 

GRATON tt KNIGHT MFG. CO. 

XXXII 



bmim FiRt Extinguisher 6o. 

MANUFACTURERS, JOBBERS AND DEALERS 

PIPE, FITTINGS, YflLYES, HYDRflNTS 



AND ALL KINDS OF 



STEAM, GAS AND WATER SUPPLIES 



AND SPECIALTIES. 



Factories and Warehouses Equipped with the 

Grinnell flulomaiio SprinKler 



BOTH WET PIPE AND DRY PIPE SYSTEMS- 




IN THOUSANDS OF ACTUAL FIRES IN ALL 
PARTS OF THE WORLD THE GRINNELL SYSTEM 
OF AUTOMATIC SPRINKLERS HAS CONFINED THE 
DAMAGE TO A LIMITED AREA AND MINIMUM 
AMOUNT. THESE REMARKABLE RESULTS HAVE 
BEEN SECURED WITH A LARGE PECUNIARY GAIN 
TO THjE INSUBANGE COMPANIES AND WITH A 
REDUCTION IN THE COST OF INSURANCE OF 25 
TO 50 PER CENT. 



Information and Proposals furnished at 
the several Department Agencies, and at the 



Executive Olllces, rroviflence, R. 1. 



S toddard. H aserick. R ichards & Go. 

BRADFORD, ENGLAND. BOSTON, MASS. 

FOREIGN BANKERS AND IMPORTERS OF 

TEXTILE MACHINERY. 

COLONIAL, ENGLISH & CARPET WOOLS, EGYPTION COTTON, &G. 



COTTON 
MACHINERY: 

SOLE REPRESENTATIVES 
FOR 

DOBSON & BARLOW, Ld. 

COTTON MACHINERY, 

"SIMPLEX" CARDS, 

HEILMAN COMBERS, 

SELF-ACTING MULES, 

FLY FRAMES, 

CONE WINDERS, 

GASSING FRAMES, 

BALE BREAKERS, 

FEEDERS, 

OPENERS, 

PICKKUS. 

SAMUEL LAW & SONS, Ld. 

(;ARD CLOTHING. 

ROLLED STEEL WIRE, 

SPECIAL 'l'KMri-:i!ING, 

SIDE (JKOTM), 

PLOW GROUND, 

SURFACE GROUND, 

NEEDLE POINTED. 

BUTTERWORTH & DICKINSON. 

LOOMS OK ALL 
DESCRIPTIONS, 

SLASHERS, 

WARPERS. 



WOOLEN 
MACHINERY: 

■ SOLE REPRESENTATIVES 
FOR 

WM. WHITELEY &l SONS. 

WOOLEN MULES, 

TENTERING AND DYEING 

MACHINERY, &c. 

WOOLEN CARDS, 

SHODDY CARDS, 

SHODDY MULES, 

WILLOWS, 

TEAZERS, 

WOOL WASHERS, 

WOOL DRYERS, 

FINISHING .MACHINERY. 

SAMUEL LAW & SONS, Ld. 

WOOLEN, 
CARD CLOTHING. 



COTTON, 

WOOLEN, 

WORSTED, 

LINEN, 

JUTE, 

SHODDY, 

COTTON WASTE. 

MACHINERY 

Of All Descriptions. 

ROLLER GINS 

Especially Made for 

Green Seed, Staple Cottons 

and Sea Islands. 

EGYPTION 
COTTON, 

All Grades and Staples. 

Mill Supplies. 

ENGLISH TEMPLES, 

WELSH AND PERSIAN, 

ROLLER SKINS, 

PELICAN BRAND, 

TINNED STEEL HEDDLES. 

KAYE'S OIL CANS, 
WORSTED HARNESS TWINE, 

LINEN HARNESS TWINE, 

&.C., &.C.. &c. 

CORRESPONDENCE 80LICI1ED. 



WORSTED 
MACHINERY: 

SOLE REPRESENTATIVES 
FOR 

PRINCE SMITH & SON. 

WORSTED MACHINERY, 

PREPARERS, GILLBOXES, 

DRAWING, SPINNING 

AND TWISTING, 

CONE DRAWING. 

TAYLOR, WORDSWORTH & CO. 

WOOLWASIIERS, ( ARDS, 

BACK WASHERS, 

GILLHO.XES, 

AND XOBLE COMBS. 

DOBSON &L BARLOW, Ld. 

WORSTED CARDS, 
WORSTED MULES, 
CONE DR.VWING. 

SOCIETE ALSACIENNE 

DE CONSTRUCTION MECANIQUES. 

WORSTED .MACHINERY ON 

FRENCH SYSTEM. 

SAMUEL LAW & SONS, Ld. 

M'ORS'J'ED, 

CARD CLOTHING, 

SURK.VCl': (J ROUND, 

ALL S'I'VLKS OF WIRE 

AND FOUNDATIONS. 

G. HATTERSLEY & SONS, Ld. 
PLAIN AND FANCY LOOMS 

E. HOYLE & SONS, Ld. 

WORSTED, DYEING AND 
FINISHING MACHINERY. 

JOHN CROSSLEY &l CO. 

BRUSSELS, WILTON AND 
TAPESTRY CARPET LOOMS. 



LINENANDJUTE 
MACHINERY: 

J. k T. BOYD. 

TWISTERS. SPOOLERS AND 
REDOUBLERS. 

AND MANY OTHERS. 



Stoddard, HflSERiCK, Richards J Co., 



AGENTS FOR 



DOBSON & BARLOW, Ld., 

COTTON MACHINERY; 

SAMUEL LAW & SONS, Ld., 

CARD CLOTHING. ^ 

Makers of the " LAW CUP" for 



RE- ^^^m^m. RivET- 




CLOTHING ^' ^F_^ . . ^ FLATS 



ON REVOLVING FLAT CARDS. 



Persian Kid and Welsh Roller Skins. 

Kaye's Oil Cans— 20,000 in use in British Navy. 

Tinned and Tempered Steel Meddles. 

Russian Isinglass for Roll-Covering. 

Home's Automatic Speed Indicator. 

Casartelli's Cloth Counting Glass. 

Goodbrand & Holland Yarn Testers, 

Reels, Scales, etc. 



XXXV 



eO/NSIDE-R 



That the 



Mills ranning at the LOWEST COST 



recorded for Steam Power in NEW ENGLAND are using 



GREEN'S FUEL 



E60N0MIZER. 



WHY SHOULD NOT YOU? 



30,000,000 



HORSE POWER IN USE. 

CAN BE APPLIED WITHOUT STOPPAGE OF WORK. 



10 TO 20 PER CENT. SAVING. 



ONLY MANUFACTURERS IN THE U. S. A. 



The Fuel Economizer Company, 



OF MATTEAWAN, N. Y. 

XXXVI 



j^oward 6c ^^ullouffh^ 
American 9/^achine Companj/j jCtd. 



RTX^aZXUCKET, R. I. 



BUILDERS OF 



Cotton Machinery 



1^"" 







BALE BREAKERS, 

OPENERS, FEEDERS, 
BREAKER LAPPERS, 

INTERMEDIATE and FINISHER LAPPERS, 
REVOLVING FLAT CARDS, 
DRAWING FRAMES, 

SLUBBING, INTERMEDIATE 

AND ROVING FRAMES. 



All parts of the different 
Machines are made by 
Special Tools, and are 
exact duplicates. 

Send for Circulars. 



SRINNING' FRAMES, 

made from entirely New Patterns and containing many Valuable Improvements. 



WE INVITE INVESTIGATION AND COMPARISON.. 

XXXVII 



KILBURN, LINCOLN & CO, 



F^KLL- RI^ER, TV^KSS., 



MAKERS OF 



L_OOMS 

For Cotton and Silk Weaving 

OVER 30,000 



Of our NEW HIGH SPEED LOOMS are in successful operation in the city 
of Fall River alone, and WEAVING ALL GRADES OF GOODS. We 
claim that the mills i)roducing the greatest quantity of goods per day, as well 
as those producing the finest quality of goods, are using our looms. 

The following record for speed has never been surpassed : — 

" The Seaconnet Mills, Fall River, tvove 
in 301 days of 10 hours each, 14,329,219 
yards of 64 x 64 goods on the 928 of our 
''NEW HIGH SPEED LOOMS," a daily 
average oj 51 3-10 yards i)er loom." 

The KILBURN, LINCOLN-NORTHROP LOOM is now ready for the 
market. This Loom combines all the light running features of our High 
Speed Loom, with the avantages of the Northrop and Draper Attachments. 

XXXVIII 



KiLBURN, Lincoln & Co, 



FALL RIVER, MASS. 




This Cut represents our " NEW HIGH SPEED LOOM." 
DESCRIPTION AND PRICES FURNISHED ON APPLICATION. 



XXXIX 




THE AMERICAN 

DROSOPHORE CO. 




150 Devonshire St., Boston. 

WM. FIRTH, - - Manager. 

The DROSOPHORE makes a perfect Spinning or Weaving atmospliere in any climate or 
weather. Any degree of Humidity is obtainable. Will warm the air in cold weather and cool 
it in hot weather. Purities the air, and is healthier for the worlvpeople. 

FOUR GOLD MEDALS AWARDED: 

Amiens 1894. 

Reims 1895. 

The only Humidifier that stood the test 

Atlanta Exposition 1895. 

Rouen 1896. 

THE GOLD MEDAL DOUBLE NOZZLE DROSOPHORE 

Has no Avearing parts, uses less water, gives a liner spray and more 
humidity than any other form of Humidifier. 

The above Company has delivered since February, 1895, over 6000 of these Machines. 



WILLIAM FIRTH 



IMPORTER OF 



Textile Machinery, 

EQUITABLE BUILDING, 150 DEVONSHIRE STREET, BOSTON, MASS. 



SOLE IMPORTER OF 



Hiwi's ni WMK WW mie mm. 

Combing Machines, Drawing Frames, Roving Frames and Self-Acting Mules. 

Curtis Sons & Co., Patent Worsted Card, Woolen Cards and Mules. 

Also, Worsted Machinery, on French and P^nglish Systems. 

Wm. Tatham & Co., Vulcan Works, Rochdale, England, makers of Waste Machinery 

for Working Hard and Soft Waste, Cop Bottoms, etc. 
James Yates & Son, Hardened and Tempered Steel Card Clothing for Woolen and 

Worsted Cards. 



XL 



BLEACHING 
DYEING . . . . 
PRINTINGano 
FINISHING.. 



►I M ^™ i m »»M^ I M »» ♦♦♦-H^< 



mmmi 



► M l ^^ I HM ^— <>> M ^— ii> M I 



FOR TEXTILE FABRICS 



BLEPCHING, DYEING and SIZING 

^/llbacbincr^= 

For Long and snort cnaln Systems 



iW.BUTTERWORTHXSONS 



C07VYPANY, 



PHILADELPHIA, PENNA. 



v^ .; , 




C^ 



u 

o 











"/ 



o 

u 



+-> 

00 

c/5 
t/i 

3-1 
O 

U 



&0 

O 



XI.II 



6orli§§Si)6aiiiEngin66o. 



1847. 



PROVIDENCE, R. 

U. S. A. 



1898. 



Builders of complete [Steam Power Plants, 

Horizontal and Vertical Engines in units of 100 to 6,000 h. p. capacity 

For Textile Plants, Roling; Mills and Electrical Power. 



^ 



' S^ lit' 'f' <r I , afi 5» 




^ 



A. 20.000 H.liP.gSteam Plant, comprising Four V^ertical Compound Engines 

and Twenty-four Boilers. 



:,:::;Uife^1^-^^^. 



,,S:^ 



'T:^, 




G^L 



f^'^' 



THOROUGH INSPECTIONS 



AND 



Against Loss or Damage to Property and 

Loss of Life and Injury to Persons 

CAUSED BY 

STEAM BOILER EXPLOSIONS. 



J. M. ALLEN, President ; J. B. PIERCE, Secretary and Treasurer ; 

WM. B. FRANKLIN, Vice-President J L. B. BRAINARD, Assistant Treasurer? 

F. B. ALLEN, Second Vice-President ? L. F. MIDDLEBROOK, Assistant Secretary. 

XLIV 



D. RUSSELL BROWN, President. H. MARTIN BROWN, Secretary. CHARLES H. CHILD, Treasurer. 

Brown Brothers Company, 



MANUFACTURERS OF 



LEATHER BELTING, BELT HOOKS, I 



SHAW'S U. S. STANDARD RING 



TRAVELERS, LOOM FORKS, FACTORY 



WIRE GOODS, BOBBINS, SHUTTLES, 



LOOM PICKERS, HEDDLES, ETC 



General . . . 



Mill 



Furnishers. 



NEW MILLS EQUIPPED THROUGHOUT. 



The All. Wrought Steel Split Pulley 



AS ILLUSTRATED HEREWITH, 

Is made exclusively of a " mild" sheet steel, accurately rolled 
to standard gauges, uo castings or forgings entering into its 
make-up. 

// has Strength and Rigidity that rendeis the All- 
Steel Pulley practically indestructible. 

Its zoeight two-thirds less than that of the ordinary cast- 
iron pulley, aud less than tluit of most wooden ones. 

A Pulley that to this uni(pie lightness and strength is 
true running, perfectly balanced, and safe under highest speeds. 

The All-Steel Pulley is rendered interchangeable by 
the use of steel bushings, and will fit shafts of different 
diameters. 




S^rown brothers Company^ 



PROVIDENCE, R. I. 



CO 



(T| 


o 


-1 


O 






=3 


a> 


•=- 


CO 


<v 


_ 


o 


cu 


O 








^ 


.:£ 


o 






o 




>• 



CA 



c^ 



UJ 



CA 






C9 
C3 



CO 
C9 



C9 

Z 

CO 



C3 



C9 



CO 







o 



ISJ 



o 


oc 




<- 


-4—' 


_l 


o 


Q 


^ 


<c 




:^ 




or 


CD 


O 


> 


:^ 


C^ 


>- 
> 


^> 


UJ 




3: 


o 


>- 


■4— • 


_i 


C^ 




Q- 


^ 


1 


-^ 


ZD 






oo 


O 







^^■^Ss^'U- ,?-^*^ 




Our Northup Loom 



WHICH IS STEADILY FORCINCi ITS WAY, 
CONSIGNING TONS OF COIMIMON LOOMS 

TO thp: junk pile 



Now THAT 24,000 HAVE BEEN SOLD 



THE QUESTION OF TIIEUI USE IS SpyiTLED 

FOR ALL TIME 

THE FIGHT HAS BEEN FOUGHT! 



WE ALSO SELL 



Twisters, Warpers, Spoolers, Balling Machines, 

Spindles, Temples, Spinning Rings, Separators, 

Etc., Etc., Etc. 

THE DRAPER COMPANY 

HOPEDALE, MASS. 



XVII 



BLEACHING, DYEING, DRYING 

AND FINISHING MACHINERY. 

Complete Equipments from Grey Room to Baling Press. 

CALENDERS and ROLLS 



FOR ALL KINDS OF FINISH. 



COTTON, PAPER, HUSK, BRASS, RUBBER, 

CHILLED IRON, 

AND STEEL (ENGRAVED) ROLLS. 



PATENT 



''Husk and Cotton 



}} COMBINATION 
ROLLS. 



MANUP^VCTURED BY PATP^NT PROCESS INSURING 
FINISH ELASTICITY AND DURABILITY 



TENTERS 



WITH 



PATENT AUTOMATIC CLIP CHAIN, SWING MOTION 
AND DRIVING ARRANGEMENT 

Washing Machines, Mangles, Ageing Machines, 
Beetles, Dyeing Machines, ■Hydraulic Presses, Etc. 

DRYING MACHINES, 

WITH COPPER OR TINNED IRON CYLINDERS FROM 1 TO 9 FEET DIAMETER. 



Granoer Foundry & MaGtiine 60. 



PROVIDENCE, R. L 



